my best harbor freight mods, thoughts, intro.

Started by Clark Savage Jr, December 30, 2015, 09:12:37 AM

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retired2

#15
April 04, 2016, 06:24:59 PM Last Edit: April 04, 2016, 07:48:43 PM by retired2
I can almost guarantee you there is a birds nest of waste that accumulates behind the inlet pipe during ooeration.   It is too close to the baffle floor.  It needs to be raised to allow chips and shavings to pass under it, and not get trapped behind it.

It also looks like the outlet pipe could be set a little lower.

One other thing I don't like is a baffle set into a corregated drum.  I don't know how you can get a decent contact line between the baffle and the drum wall with corrugations.  It looks like there may be some kind of gasket being used, and it looks to me like it is just another place for chips and shavings to get hung up, especially with the inlet pipe sitting down on the baffle to slow the waste down. 


dabullseye

#16
April 05, 2016, 10:01:26 AM Last Edit: April 05, 2016, 11:08:09 PM by dabullseye
i would have to agree with r2 raise it inlet elbow up. it also looks like you never cut the side of elbow off to get more of a smoother flow against the inside of trash can. i cant really tell the position of your inlet elbow but thats why i really like the TH inlet comes in on a tangent which forces dust against inside of TH.
i cant believe you have so much dust in your bag i have never had to change/empty my bag in over 4yrs in all these yrs there is less than a half gallon in my bag (table saw,drum sander,13" dewalt planer with shelix head,drill press,wood lathe...). i also have a very transparent trash  can (older post) under my tophat and i can see the dust spiral down along the inside of the can. i had a bellmouth but i removed it and my out pipe does not extend into the TH chamber.

nucww

#17
April 05, 2016, 09:14:59 PM
Another thing to consider is the alignment of the baffle slot relative to the inlet pipe.  There is no clear view but the open slot should end right before the inlet pipe.  The view I saw looked like it was open 40-60 degrees after the pipe inlet.

nucww

#18
April 07, 2016, 06:21:04 PM
Another look at your pictures and another thought came to mind.  The seal between the trash can lid and the trash can must be air tight.  I can't see inside the lid or edge of the trash can to see if you have any insulating material.  The cyclone effect is greatly diminished when there are even small leaks in the cyclone area according to others.  It will also reduce your air flow at the inlet where you are collecting dust.

dbhost

#19
December 08, 2016, 05:00:55 PM
Thank you for posting up this information, particularly on the Rikon impeller. Not sure if you are still checking this post, but if you are, did you have to provide a serial # on the DC to get the impeller. I have heard they ask for that...

I've had the HF 2HP DC for at least 6 years now with a 55 gallon side inlet Thien separator, and 5" in / out... My hopes / plans for it are...

#1. Larger Impeller.
#2. Upfitted intake plate to 6" from 5".
#3. Replace the 55 gallon plastic drum (horribly heavy!) I want to go with a...
#4. 30 gallon trash can Thien Cyclone separator. Forget the side inlet. Too hard to work with. 6" in, 6" out.
#5. Replace my main trunks from dual 4" to single 6"...

wizard of oz

#20
December 10, 2016, 07:45:29 PM
I just ordered a Rikon impeller, and they did not ask for a serial no., or for what I was to put it in.

Oz

Jtull01

#21
December 13, 2016, 12:21:47 PM
Hi,
Thought I would pipe in. I am on my 3rd build of my baffle. My second version worked fairly well, but I did not have the drop slot up against the wall of the separator.  I did enjoy watching the dust and chips flying around! But, it would eventually  build up dust next to the wall and then finally clog the slot. I did freak when I noticed the separator started to fill up almost instantly and suck everything into the bag, but it was my bad, the can was way full ;D.

Ill update when my number 3 separator is done.
Verry Merry and Healthy Holidays to All

ironmike

#22
December 14, 2016, 02:13:11 PM
How did you remove the impeller?

Thanks!

bobgroh

#23
December 17, 2016, 09:41:15 AM
Fantastic batch of data and thoughts - great summary. I am going to print it out and stick it in my 'Dust Collector' folder.

For future testing, I would recommend/suggest that monitoring motor current would be a handy piece of data to have.  Gives you a good indication of motor loading - I suspect your impeller change bumped up the horsepower required by quite a bit.

Nice work and thanks for the summary of your efforts.

Bob Groh, Blue Springs, Missouri

wizard of oz

#24
December 17, 2016, 07:58:56 PM
ironmike, to remove the impeller:

use a 5mm allen wrench, and it is LEFT HANDED bolt.

then I used a bearing puller to put it off.

mine came off easily.

tharris

#25
December 28, 2016, 03:24:42 PM
I plan on making the same impellor mod to my HF.  I also plan to vent outside through the wall due to my location.  I believe I read somewhere here that venting outside would increase my amp draw and am concerned that adding the Rikon impellor might take it over the top.  Can anyone clarify or confirm for me? Thanks!

TJ

Lee W

#26
February 14, 2017, 12:33:47 PM
Use CAUTION when venting outside of a conditioned space (heated or cooled).
A functioning DC pulls large amounts of conditioned air outside that has to be made up and reconditioned.
If you have any fueled heating devices such as furnace or water heater you could actually cause a negative draft and pull carbon monoxide (CO) back into your workspace whenever they are working.

justauser

#27
February 21, 2017, 07:07:41 PM
Quote from: tharris on December 28, 2016, 03:24:42 PM
I plan on making the same impellor mod to my HF.  I also plan to vent outside through the wall due to my location.  I believe I read somewhere here that venting outside would increase my amp draw and am concerned that adding the Rikon impellor might take it over the top.  Can anyone clarify or confirm for me? Thanks!

TJ

I honestly don't understand how anyone is getting away with swapping in the Rikon impeller on the HF dust collector. I just tried and got a 65 amp draw on startup. The motor just doesn't seem to be built to start turning something that large and heavy. It tripped the breaker it was on and the 4 breakers under it in the panel. Any tips? Because I just don't see a way to make this work.

BlakeD

#28
June 13, 2017, 07:06:51 PM
Looking for a supplier for the Rikon 60-200 other than Rikon for the impeller?  I thought I saw one but cannot find it now.
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