Another new build – I’m in information paralysis

[Bulldog8]

I agree with just about everything retired2 said in his 1st post on this thread.  Until there is a way to actually measure "better separation of fines," most of those enhancements based on it are just unknown, and a slight improvement at best.

I would beg to differ, with utmost respect to retired2, about the transparent sides, though - I think it is an advantage to be able to see if anything is clogging inside, and, well, I just love looking at the swirl.  Maybe that's not worth the expense to some (it didn't cost me anything as I had the stuff already) but I would have paid for the plastic sheet anyway.  Just don't use plexiglass (acrylic) as it will be an exercise in frustration.  My Lowe's carries Lexan and you can find it at sign makers or online.  You don't have to get one long, narrow piece - the walls can be done in sections.  Since you are going to seal the walls in place, you don't need to screw into it, either - it just has to be cut with a tight enough fit to stay in place until the caulk sets up.

Having a transparent wall on the inside of the separator has shown me that with about 1 year's use, there is NO wear, scratching, or dulling of the window from the dust against the material, and I believe that worrying about the walls wearing down is unnecessary.  I have only been collecting sawdust however, not cleaning up after sandblasting equipment.  In that case, you should probably worry more about your hose.

Retired2 is right, though - just doing a basic one will get you very close and one you will be happy with every time you look in your bin.

I agree with the use of transparent material for the walls. When I built my first separator a couple of years ago, I used acrylic or poly,  (don't remember which it was) it was just scrap stuff I had in the shop. I found it beneficial for seeing when to empty the barrel, I can see that dust continues to swirl in the separator instead of dropping through the slot when the dust level gets very close to the bottom of the separator.

[nj_mike]

retired2 -  thanks for the link.  that's going to be a big help.

jdon- no worries.

now all i have to do is wait for the weather to warm up some so i can go build this thing.  i did not get heat for the garage, aka my shop, this christmas.

[tvman44]

retired2, where did you put your support rod?  I too have doubts a support rod would have a lot of impact since the 2 in the barrel separators each have 3 support rods to hold the baffle.

I agree with just about everything retired2 said in his 1st post on this thread.  Until there is a way to actually measure "better separation of fines," most of those enhancements based on it are just unknown, and a slight improvement at best.

I would beg to differ, with utmost respect to retired2, about the transparent sides, though - I think it is an advantage to be able to see if anything is clogging inside, and, well, I just love looking at the swirl.  Maybe that's not worth the expense to some (it didn't cost me anything as I had the stuff already) but I would have paid for the plastic sheet anyway.  Just don't use plexiglass (acrylic) as it will be an exercise in frustration.  My Lowe's carries Lexan and you can find it at sign makers or online.  You don't have to get one long, narrow piece - the walls can be done in sections.  Since you are going to seal the walls in place, you don't need to screw into it, either - it just has to be cut with a tight enough fit to stay in place until the caulk sets up.

Having a transparent wall on the inside of the separator has shown me that with about 1 year's use, there is NO wear, scratching, or dulling of the window from the dust against the material, and I believe that worrying about the walls wearing down is unnecessary.  I have only been collecting sawdust however, not cleaning up after sandblasting equipment.  In that case, you should probably worry more about your hose.

Retired2 is right, though - just doing a basic one will get you very close and one you will be happy with every time you look in your bin.

[retired2]

retired2, where did you put your support rod?  I too have doubts a support rod would have a lot of impact since the 2 in the barrel separators each have 3 support rods to hold the baffle.

I placed the rod midway along the unsupported edge of the baffle, and 2-1/2" back from the edge of the drop slot.  The support rod is 1/8" dia., which is plenty strong because it is not really supporting any weight, just stopping vibration of the baffle.

[tvman44]

Thanks, but you also have some 3/4" under the baffle?
What I am thinking about doing is to make a top-hat and thinking about using 3/4" plywood for the top and bottom and cutting the slot in the bottom larger (like 280 degrees and 2"wide) then putting a piece of 1/8" hardboard over the bottom and cutting the proper size slot in the hard board (240 degrees and 3/4" wide) for very fine dust from my scroll saw.  My reason for wanting to do like this is to use the 3/4" to support the 1/8" so it does not sag, I would glue the 1/8" to the 3/4".  By making the slot in the 3/4 larger than the slot in the 1/8" my thinking is I will get the support I want for the 1/8" without the thickness of the 3/4" effecting the separation (slot will only be 1/8" thick.   Also I would be able to route a slot underneath the bottom 3/4" to seal to the barrel.  Is my thinking flawed or do you'll think this should work good?  Also I plan to use Formica for the side walls since I have it already, I would use the slick top side for the inside of the wall?

[retired2]

Thanks, but you also have some 3/4" under the baffle?
What I am thinking about doing is to make a top-hat and thinking about using 3/4" plywood for the top and bottom and cutting the slot in the bottom larger (like 280 degrees and 2"wide) then putting a piece of 1/8" hardboard over the bottom and cutting the proper size slot in the hard board (240 degrees and 3/4" wide) for very fine dust from my scroll saw.  My reason for wanting to do like this is to use the 3/4" to support the 1/8" so it does not sag, I would glue the 1/8" to the 3/4".  By making the slot in the 3/4 larger than the slot in the 1/8" my thinking is I will get the support I want for the 1/8" without the thickness of the 3/4" effecting the separation (slot will only be 1/8" thick.   Also I would be able to route a slot underneath the bottom 3/4" to seal to the barrel.  Is my thinking flawed or do you'll think this should work good?  Also I plan to use Formica for the side walls since I have it already, I would use the slick top side for the inside of the wall?

[retired2]

Thanks, but you also have some 3/4" under the baffle?
What I am thinking about doing is to make a top-hat and thinking about using 3/4" plywood for the top and bottom and cutting the slot in the bottom larger (like 280 degrees and 2"wide) then putting a piece of 1/8" hardboard over the bottom and cutting the proper size slot in the hard board (240 degrees and 3/4" wide) for very fine dust from my scroll saw.  My reason for wanting to do like this is to use the 3/4" to support the 1/8" so it does not sag, I would glue the 1/8" to the 3/4".  By making the slot in the 3/4 larger than the slot in the 1/8" my thinking is I will get the support I want for the 1/8" without the thickness of the 3/4" effecting the separation (slot will only be 1/8" thick.   Also I would be able to route a slot underneath the bottom 3/4" to seal to the barrel.  Is my thinking flawed or do you'll think this should work good?  Also I plan to use Formica for the side walls since I have it already, I would use the slick top side for the inside of the wall?

Yes, I have a 3/4", stiffener that is set back quite a way from the drop slot.  It is not connected to the rim at any point so it just an island in the middle of the baffle.  Also, my baffle is 1/4", rather than the 1/8" you are proposing.

I think your plan will work just fine, but if I follow your numbers correctly your 3/4" backup will be 1-1/4" back from the drop slot.  At that distance I would recommend you chamfer the full edge of the plywood with a 45 degree router bit to minimize any disturbance to the air under the baffle.

[tvman44]

Ok, thanks for the tip.  I could make the slot in the 3/4" even bigger but will 45 either way.  How far back is your stiffener?

[retired2]

Ok, thanks for the tip.  I could make the slot in the 3/4" even bigger but will 45 either way.  How far back is your stiffener?

Looking at my construction photo, I'd say my stiffener is back about 2-1/2", and I still chamfered the edge.  But remember my baffle is 1/4" thick.

[tvman44]

Do you think I would be better off with a 1/4" baffle instead of the 1/8" if I chamfer the 1/4"?

[retired2]

Do you think I would be better off with a 1/4" baffle instead of the 1/8" if I chamfer the 1/4"?

I think you will be fine with the 1/8".