Anyone use the blue plastic industrial 55gal drums for the collector?

[juicegoose]

I've got access to several blue plastic industrial 55 gallon drums with lids that have lock rings. I was thinkin this would be perfect for a canister instead of a metal trash can. I know people have tried the plastic trashcans and said the sides collapse but was thinking the heavier nature of these drums would work better.

So sound off has anyone used the blue industrial 55 gallon plastic drums for the collector canister?

[bagger don]

Yes but if it is poly most glue will not work. I have a 6" PVC side inlet and had to use epoxy and fiberglass to attach it.

Don Z.

[juicegoose]

I was thinking of constructing a inlet like Chuck did on his 50-760 an simply using small carriage bolts or a bolt with a rounded head to mount it to the side. Then take the advise on epoxy or something similiar to seal up the gaps.

I was just concerned about the sides caving in.

Also did you utilize the top of the drum for the tom os the seperator. I would think that having the locking ring lid would be a great asset.

[bagger don]

As soon as I figure out how to attach a picture I will post it. I cut the PVC on the band saw with a circle jig so the inlet pipe was a perfect fit.the fiberglass holds it very rigid. the top is a press fit with a shoulder. I used 2 pcs so it is the same as a rabbit.

Don Z.

[juicegoose]

Well I got a drum over the weekend. Locking lid with gasket and all. The problem I think I'm going to run into is the top section of the barrel curves in around the lid. So I'm thinking I'll have to use a tophat design and utilize the lid as my lower baffle. We'll see though.

[juicegoose]

Last night I FINALLY got a chance to get into the shop and take some measurements. Originally I was concerned that the lip at the top of the blue plastic 55 gallon barrel I was hoping to use would be to much to slide the lower baffle through. I really didn't want to cut the barrel down because the lid locked securely to the barrel and sealed with a gasket(wanted this as the top of the system).

So after measuring the inner most circumfrence of the barrel(the inner lip) and subtracting it's diameter from the outer most circumfrence of the barrel(measured from the inside) I came up with a difference of 1.75" or roughly 7/8" difference in the radi of the two circles. Check out the pics below

If I create the baffle dropzone with a offset of say 2" that will give me some wiggle room to get the baffle by the inner circle. Once past the circle it would be a simple matter of insuring i push the baffle back against the barrel wall on the part of the baffle that wasn't offset. Locking the lid down would accomplish this as well. What do you guys think. Anything I should be concerned with or haven't thought of?

Also whats everyones thoughts on the lid being used as the top of the baffle. It's not flat like plywood but this will be the top so the chips should be falling down and the ridges shouldn't effect the flow. Heck if anything it will help to keep the airflow spinning..maybe?



(pardon the odd placement of text. It was all done through my iphone)

[bagger don]

I didn't have the lid with mine so that's the main reason I cut mine down not to mention I originally planned on using the stock Delta cart. I have an 1-1/2" difference in diameter from the top to where the baffle sits and an 1-1/8" wide drop zone and that gives me the required space for the baffle to fit the smaller diameter at the top. I also put a 1/2" radius on the lower lid section so it is a snug fit when the lid is in place. I think you should be OK but I would start with a smaller drop zone at first as you can always open it up if necessary.

Don Z.

[juicegoose]

Bag

For sure I'll start with as narrow as I can get. I'll probably make a mock up out of some scrap 1/4" ply to see what I can get away with.

yesterday I also ran by the orange box store to look over the HVAC ducting and S&D pipe. They didn't have any s&D pipe but they had all kinds of HVAC fittings in 5" and 6". Were you able to find a fitting to reduce the 6" s&D down to a 4" that could be used on 4" flex or the like?

[bagger don]

The 4" flex I used fits right inside 4" DWV or SR35 fittings. The I.D. on Schedule 40 is too small.  Sprayed a little WD40 to help twist it in and it stays stuck.
I've had better luck with Menards as they seem to have a bigger selection.

Don Z.

[juicegoose]

we don't have Menard's down in Texas but I'm sure I can find the fittings. Someone is bound to have the type you've bought.