Delta 50-760 6 inch

[rsquest]

I am going to build a separator for my new DC unit.  I bought a 30 gallon metal trashcan -- like the one in Stugots recent post.  I am going to use 6 inch ducts from my DC to my tools.  Is there any reason why I would not want to use 6 inch ports on the separator?

Thanks.
Ray

[Greg McCallister]

I see no reason as why not ... more air flow the better (within reason).

[rsquest]

I guess I am wondering if there will be enough room in the lid space for two 6 inch connectors and if that will negatively impact the performance -- having such large inlets and outlets.

[CheapScotsman]

A 6" inlet with a 6" outlet centered means you have a min of 9" radius which puts the inlet right beside the the outlet. Solution are to make the baffle wider (if you can accomodate it) or to put the inlet on the side of the baffle instead of the top

There are a few people who have built baffles using 6" inlets/outlets (including Greg) so take a look at the previous posts on this forum.

[bennybmn]

I would put the inlet on the side like others have. You reduce the number of twists and turns the airflow has to take, and save room too.

[rsquest]

Can anyone offer advice on how to cut into the side of the trash can and place an inlet in the side of the can effectively?  For the actual inlet "piece" I guess I can use a straight tube and cut away (on an angle) the part that will be on the inside of the can.

[phil (admin)]

Can anyone offer advice on how to cut into the side of the trash can and place an inlet in the side of the can effectively?  For the actual inlet "piece" I guess I can use a straight tube and cut away (on an angle) the part that will be on the inside of the can.

Here is a link to a thread where there is software discussed that will plot a template you use to cut the garbage can.  Basically, you provide the diameter of the can, the diameter of the inlet, and the angle of entry, and it does the rest.

http://www.jpthien.com/smf/index.php?topic=36.0

So basically, you'd mark the template on the can, and use a Dremel or something similar to cut it out.  Then you'd tab and fold-back the inlet pipe, and either solder or rivet it to the can.

Let us see some pics when you're done.

[rsquest]

This is a little intimidating to me, but I have learned so much in the past year ... I guess I can try to tackle this!  I don't have any soldering or riveting equipment, but I will figure out something.  I guess I could use small bolts and washers instead of rivets ... some silicon could to get a good seal ... that may work.  I have never done any kind of metal working, but I suppose that as long as I am careful about the sharp edges I can figure it out.

As I think about this ... what I might do ... buy a piece of 6 inch PVC, cut a hole for it to fit through -- coming in on a tangent, extend the PVC tube into the trash can just far enough that I can put a bolt through the can and PVC to hold it in place.  Inside the can, the PVC will be cut at an angle so that it just minimally impacts the area in the baffle.  I can use caulk to seal around the PVC.  I don't know if this makes sense, but I think I am going to try it (unless someone describes an easier way to accomplish this).

[rsquest]

Trying to use the software for drawing the diagram for the hole that must be cut ...  I think that I want to use:
Join angle: 90 degrees
Main pipe exterior:  This would be the diameter of the trash can
Branch pipe exterior: This would be the exterior of the PVC or whatever I use
Thickness: thickness of the branch pipe material
Lateral offset: -- this is the one that I am not sure of.  I think this should be the maximum that it allows.

[bennybmn]

I would have the pipe come in at as much of a tangent to the outside of the can as you can.

As for metal working, you can probably cut into a trash can by drilling a starter hole and using tin snips. No big investment in equipment. Also I bought a $20 pop rivet kit from the BORG and keep finding uses for it! Real simple to use, let me know if you need help. They are nice cause they sit flush!! Go for it man, nothing to be intimidated by.

[rsquest]

So my intake on the DC is 5 inches ... so I am wondering if it is worth putting 6 inch on the separator or if 5 inches would be better.  Going for 6 inches will take up more space from the trash can.

I have been planning to use 6 inch on all of my runs to my machines.  I am not an engineer and don't really understand the fluid mechanics involved here.  Will going from a 5 inch DC intake and up-sizing to 6 inch help or hurt my dust collection? ... or will it have no effect?  I know that it is hard to find 5 inch pipes, but I think there is an irrigation supply nearby who will have it if I try to go that way.

[phil (admin)]

5" pipes/fittings can be kinda tricky to find.  The 4"/6" stuff is much more common.  I'd probably size the separator to 6", and maybe consider a new blower some day down the road that has a 6" inlet.

The idea of extending the PVC into the can and securing w/ a machine screw has occurred to me in the past.  BUT, having it extend into the can would make it difficult to install the top w/ the baffle.  If you're going to extend the PVC into the can, you're probably going to want a way to install the baffle separately from the top, so you can maneuver it around the inlet.

[rsquest]

So, as I posted in a separate thread, I am going to use an A/C duct.  I guess I will try to use some rivets to connect it, but I am looking for additional ideas on how to get a good seal all the way around.

[phil (admin)]

So, as I posted in a separate thread, I am going to use an A/C duct.  I guess I will try to use some rivets to connect it, but I am looking for additional ideas on how to get a good seal all the way around.

You could always use something like silicone.  I had thought about solder, but doing so would probably result in having no rust protection left on that area of the can/pipe.

[backsaw13]

I am right in the middle of doing this right now. I am using a 30 gallon can. I chose 5" round galvanized for both the inlet and outlet. I have never really done metal work, so this is taking me a bit of time to assemble, and it is looking a little rough. I used the pipe angle calculator mentioned earlier to have the pipe go directly in from the side of the can - i do have it protruding in, and plan to mount the baffle (not made yet) separately from the lid. I am also mounting it directly below the inlet on the 50-760. I will grab some pictures of the progress tonight.

one question though. how far below the inlet and outlet should the baffle be? I have seen some pics here where it is mounted directly below the inlet, and some where it is a bit further away.