Finished my build

[revwarguy]

Well, I think its soup.  A picture is attached, and the build log for it is at:

www.liming.org/dustcollection

Any comments about the webpage can be made in this thread, and thanks for looking!

So far, it seems to work just fine, although when I first turn the unit on, Some dust starts swirling around inside the chamber  before I've started cutting, even though it was clear by the time I turned it off from the previous session.  Is this dust being pulled up from the bin? Is this normal for yours?

Next is to mount a lifting arm on the wall to make emptying it easy.

[alan m]

looking great.
iv noticed the same thing on my 6" seperater. the top only is clear . i see a small big spining at the very top of the side
not sure why or where it is coming from.
it could be residual dust in the line that has settled  and been sucked up

[codykniffen]

Pretty sure I'm going to finally build my top hat based on your design. Wish me luck!

[revwarguy]

Pretty sure I'm going to finally build my top hat based on your design. Wish me luck!

Any questions, fire away.  If I had it to do over, I think I would have used plywood instead of MDF as I had the MDF on hand, but either will work.  I keep using the separator, though, and it seems to work really well.

BTW, calling it my design is stretching it a quite a bit, but I know what you meant.  These collaboration projects can get tricky -  thanks to Phil Thien for the baffle idea, Bruce Wrenn for the Top Hat idea, Rawdawgs50 (aka Pitbull or perhaps Jason ???) for the shell idea, who says he got it from somebody named vawoodworker84, and retired2 for the bell mouth idea. My contribution is that I painted mine red!   :)

When you get it done, or even before, upload some pictures here, OK?

[tvman44]

What did you use for the baffle itself?
Been thinking about redoing one of my separators from the top entry type with the baffle in the barrel and making a top hat for it. :)

[retired2]

What did you use for the baffle itself?
Been thinking about redoing one of my separators from the top entry type with the baffle in the barrel and making a top hat for it. :)

Don't know what "revwarguy" used, but tempered hardboard is a very good choice.  It is thin, strong, smooth, inexpensive, and is readily available in 2'x2' sheets. 

[tvman44]

I have two separators and used Masonite (tempered Hardboard) on both one is a piece of 1/8" I had on hand and the other is 1/4" I also had on hand.  If I build a top-hat thinking about gettig some 1/8" Masonite. :)

[retired2]

I have two separators and used Masonite (tempered Hardboard) on both one is a piece of 1/8" I had on hand and the other is 1/4" I also had on hand.  If I build a top-hat thinking about gettig some 1/8" Masonite. :)

If you've seen my build you may remember I put an MDF stiffener plate on the underside of my 1/4" hardboard baffle.  It is totally unnecessary with 1/4" hardboard, but it might be useful if you were to use 1/8".  I also added a single support rod about the midpoint of the drop slot.  I think that is needed with both a 1/8" or 1/4" baffle plate.  The support rod has no impact on performance - just set it back a couple inches from the drop slot.  Which thickness you use might depend on your method of construction, but a good rule of thumb for baffles is the thinner the better! 

[revwarguy]

What did you use for the baffle itself?
Been thinking about redoing one of my separators from the top entry type with the baffle in the barrel and making a top hat for it. :)

As shown on the website, I used 3/4 in mdf.  This is a bit thick for the baffle edge, and that is why I beveled it.  In this approach, the bottom of the separator not only serves as the baffle, but is also the rim seal for the bin, the attach point for the bottom of the Lexan sides, and the attach point for the inlet walls.  Kind of a lot to ask of thin material.  Perhaps a thin top layer for the edge over something that can form a pocket for the bin rim?

[revwarguy]

I've made a video of the dust action of this separator.  It is at the bottom of the webpage here:

http://www.liming.org/dustcollection/.

It shows different material being cut.

[tvman44]

I sure would love to see a set of plans with measurements for a top hat.  I just can't seem to wrap my head around that concept. :)

[revwarguy]

A set of plans is a bit problematic - you start with the main pieces you want to use, the driving numbers seem to be the size of the pipes (both from the DC and the duct out to the tools - in my case, 4 inches) and the size of the bin or can you will be using.

Then, you do what you can to make something like a pocket slot that will allow a tight fit of the can rim into the bottom of the separator.  From the diameter of this ring, you can set the diameter of the outer ring of the C slot, and that then determines the diameter of the inner slot.  The size of the inlet duct sets the minimum size of the risers (some argue it should be greater than this) between the top and bottom of the separator.  Once you know the diameter of the C slot, you know how long a piece of plastic wall to get.  The diameter of the separator top is just whatever covers the risers, but it is not critical.

If you would like me to take a measurement off of mine, just ask for what you want.

[RonS]

Look at this post. There is a PDF file there with my part Dem.

http://www.jpthien.com/smf/index.php?topic=847.msg4896#msg4896

ron

[retired2]

I sure would love to see a set of plans with measurements for a top hat.  I just can't seem to wrap my head around that concept. :)

Here's a sketch with everything you need to copy mine.  The sketch is followed my numerous construction photos. 

http://www.jpthien.com/smf/index.php?topic=563.msg3031#msg3031

[Jack]

For sure its more than just done soup.  Beautiful!  I see from your photos that you cut a rabbit in the top piece for the plexiglass to fit into, but no rabbit in the bottom (baffle) to hold the plexiglass.  If I am correct, then how does the bottom get sealed to the plexiglass?  I see your vertical braces/supports which keep the plexiglass inside and at the edge of the baffle, so I assume you ran a bead of clear silicone around the bottom.  Was there no rabbit at the bottom so that you could assure the wall was flush with the edge of the "c"?  Also, how did you bend the plexiglass?  I assume you installed the plexiglass in the top first using a blow torch.  Any help in these two areas would be very helpful.  Thanks.