anybody done this...

[toolguy1000]

to a delta 50-850?

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/tools/shop-made-vortex-dust-collector-woks-on

based on the article, it seems like a simple addition with a good return in terms of efficiency.

[thekingofspain]

Tried the 6" pvc sewer coupler in hot oil to bellmouth hood and it was an epic fail.  Its now melted (none flare) snuggly on the collector in a toxic avenger outer decor.

Which is better bellmouth or wok?  Been debating inverting the primary ring of the DC and making a 6" to 10" bellmouth and joining that with the rings own flaring curves, making one big 6" to 20" bellmouth.

[thekingofspain]

I might have found a cheap bellmouth and/or wok source, Dollar General is a selling chip and dip tray for a dollar.  The dip container part of the tray is a perfect 6 inches in diameter and the overall dimensions are 13.75 inches with a depth of 2 inches.  They are on the flimsy side but are really smooth. I might have to stack two of them together with some type of epoxy or bondo to stiffen them up.

The underside of the chip container is hollowed out and should be able to be covered and or filled with to resemble the bottom of a wok.

[thekingofspain]

Here are some pictures

[thekingofspain]

Have not tried the above option yet, but I today I picked up two aluminum light fixture housing that could converted into something similar.

http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Beauty-Beautydish-Elinchrom-Strobe/dp/B0048WL3KW/ref=sr_1_288?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1337241453&sr=1-288

They probably longer in length as compared to the link, but the width is narrower than the one the pictured.  The price was right at the 2nd hand store, $2.50 each.  The had about a dozen, but most of the fixtures had a lot of dings in them that would effect the airflow.  A cheap or used work light might just be big enough to modify as well.

[thekingofspain]

The width is 7 to 14 with a height of 12.

[Peter]

I think, if you're after a bell-mouth inlet, you have the curvature going in the wrong direction. The idea of a bell-mouth inlet is to remove turbulence at the opening of the inlet. It should look like the reverse of a trumpet bell. In a trumpet, the sound is spread outward by following the curve of the horn's tube from narrow to wide in a smooth transition.

With your set-up, you haven't smoothed anything out, especially; just moved the narrow portion of the tube into a mini-cavity, which seems to me will create more turbulence, not less.

[thekingofspain]

Well looks like I hijacked this thread, sorry.

As for what is up and what is down, I need to add some more explanation.

I am trying to optimize the airflow for the best separation using the motor as the top hat going into DC ring with an internal baffle that sits on top of the garage can.  Note that I have two DC rings, the second ring will be used as the traditional outlet (but with an internal baffle) with filters on top and a bag on the bottom.

The wok cyclone design is pulling air from the side DC ring and restricting straight pass through.
The Thien baffle design is pulling air from the sides of chamber\DC ring and restricting straight pass through..

Parts

• DC inlet cover plate:  16" diameter with 6" inlet pipe
• Light fixture:  6" to 15.5"/16.5" ID/OD diameter over 10.5" in heght.
• DC ring:  19.5 diameter 11" high. 
  Curved ring opening widens from 10" diameter to 19.5 diameter over 3" in height.
  The top of the ring is the curved part.
• Chip & Dip:  6" to 14" diameter over 2" in height.
• T8 Light Tubes

Issues

• The airflow from DC fan blades to DC inlet pipe is not optimized.
• The airflow from the DC inlet pipe to the DC baffled ring is not optimized.

DC to TB/DC ring connection possibilities

• Use two light fixtures and make a shot glass jigger with straightening tubes as DC inlet cover plate replacement.
• DC 6" pipe to light fixture with wide part of fixture connecting to ring
• DC 6" pipe to light fixture as DC cover plate replacement with narrow part of fixture connecting to ring
• Covert fixture into a wok and mount inside DC ring.

Depending the design, the curved part of the DC ring to light fixture connection will have different size openings.  Best solution for this is

• Cut fixture down until fixture diameter matches DC ring curved diameter
• Cut DC ring to light fixture diameter
• Place fixture underneath curved ring and have the desired end of the fixture stick out of the DC ring

[Ted Miller]

I just tried the wok lid idea last night on my 2 hp Wilke DC with top canister. I will see if I can add some pics later on.

I purchased the 14" wok lid from Amazon for $12.00. I pretty much did what the link in that toolguy1000 posted. Except I only used one bolt and spacer in the same hole that was used for the handle, I just had to enlarge the hole a bit to fit the bolt. I did try the 1 1/2" spacer. Reassembled everything and run the DC for a few minutes and added about 5 or 6 large double handfuls of fines collected from the old DC lower bag. I took off the JDS top cannister, I did clean the filter before reassembly. The filter and the top portion of the DC had a ton of fines in it. I almost choked removing the cannister due to all the fines in the filter and at the base of the filter.

I decided to remove the 1 1/2" spacer and move the wok lid closer to the large hole in the DC. I did read on one thread here about Phil saying the hole was too large on some DC's. I used a smaller bolt, 1" and no spacer. Reassembled the unit and proceeded to add some more fines and small chips. I let the unit suck up another 6 or 7 double handfuls on dust, let the unit wind down, I did not touch the filter paddles. This time the filter was spotless and zero dust on the top of wok lid. I then put the filter back in place and this time kept dumping fines and small chips into the running system to fill the bottom bag about 10" or so. I took off the filter for the last time, and low and behold, no fines or chips in the filter, nothing below the filter either. I have to say the filter was a bit cleaner then when I cleaned it myself.

Now I must say the tornandic activity in the lower bag was a lot, I know this is not a good thing, but we will see how this works in the next week or so as I fill the lower bags usually once a week.

I did make one of Phil's baffles and installed it on this unit, but I am sure I did not design it correctly since my cannister was still getting a lot of fines in it. I think the hole is too large on this unit and I did use 3/4" plywood for the baffle.  I am sure my baffle placement was incorrect. I will make a new baffle using hardboard and maybe try a smaller slot.

I want to thank Phil and all the other members for their wisdom on DC in this forum. Even after all these years in this business, never to old to learn...

[phil (admin)]

The problem with the wok is that it allows too much turbulence in the bottom bag, which results in scrubbing.  Fines in the bag are kept in suspension until they make it to the filter, or you power the unit off.

Instead of trying the wok, you should have made a chimney to go between the ring of the separator and the baffle.  The chimney can extend down into the ring an inch or two.

[Ted Miller]

Thank you Phil, I am trying to find a picture of a chimney on your site.

Do you think the inside opening of the cone on my DC being 9 1/2" across is too large? So a chimney is a must?

Thank you again for your help...

[Ted Miller]

I think I found the answer on the chimney:

http://www.jpthien.com/smf/index.php?topic=661.0

[phil (admin)]

Yep, that is the right way to make a chimney.

[Ted Miller]

Perfect, thank you again...

[DarthVader]

so what is the fix for turbulence in the bottom bag? mine is pretty wicked once i added the wynn filter.