Trash Can Topper Project with 6" Ports

[Bulldog8]

Sailfl, you could use a 55 gallon barrel and make a smaller separator to tighten the rotation. For example if you were using a shopvac to move the air,  it's unlikely that you would have enough CFM to use the full diameter a 55 gallon barrel. You would have to make the baffle and chamber less than the full diameter of the barrel to keep the debris spinning fast enough for good separation.

Likewise if you were using a DC with a 12" impeller and a 6" inlet, a chamber that is too small in diameter would not keep the outlet far enough from the debris stream to provide the best possible separation. (think 5 gallon bucket connected with a DC)

Somewhere in the middle of these extremes are the separators that provide the level of separation the keeps the fines from the filter.

Steve

[chrism3]

I realise that this is an old thread, but I couldn't find the orginator's email address to ask him privately.  I wonder if I can ask a couple of questions:
1. for vawoodworker84, in your first build photo there look like screws coming through the top and bottom of the hat, in between each side panel. Are these to guide the flexible wall when it goes in? i.e. to stop the wall from going into the angles between the side panels?
2. For anyone: the baffle on this build is said to be 1 inch. I thought I saw somewhere that it should be about 1/8 inch?? Or is that only necessary in the original Phil design?

[retired2]

I realise that this is an old thread, but I couldn't find the orginator's email address to ask him privately.  I wonder if I can ask a couple of questions:
1. for vawoodworker84, in your first build photo there look like screws coming through the top and bottom of the hat, in between each side panel. Are these to guide the flexible wall when it goes in? i.e. to stop the wall from going into the angles between the side panels?
2. For anyone: the baffle on this build is said to be 1 inch. I thought I saw somewhere that it should be about 1/8 inch?? Or is that only necessary in the original Phil design?

The OP was active as recent as the end of Sept.  Were you not able to send a private message using forum software?

1) I don't see any reason for the screws.  The flexible wall is shaped and retained by the top and bottom plate so it does not appear the screws are doing anything, including aiding the assembly.

2) A thinner baffle plate is better.  If all you are separating is saw dust and fines, it might not make any difference, but if you are separating shavings from a jointer or planer it is much easier to have the stringy stuff hang up and cause a blockage.  I have a 1/4" baffle plate and I sent some wet planer shavings into the separator.  The end of the drop slot would catch the long shavings and in no time the separator was completely blocked and filled with shavings.  The process would repeat as soon as I cleaned out the mess.  Since the end of the drop slot is very prone to catching shavings, it should be thing, nicely rounded and smooth so there are not corners or edges for things to snag onto.

[chrism3]

I hadn't found the private message feature - I have now. Thanks for your answers.