Trash Can Topper Project with 6" Ports

[Fabian Valinskas]

I love this design, and wish I stumbled across it when I first found Mr. Thien's series of threads here.  I have just finished making my first Thien Cyclone Separator lid, and it fits into my 20 gal  garbage can.  I, too, have a DELTA 50-760 like Brian Marks (http://www.jpthien.com/smf/index.php?topic=132.0), and I have oriented my garbage can just like he did directly under intake on the DC.  Once I finished my project, I noticed that I have 13" of space between the top of my garbage can and the bottom of my DC.  I will use my new Thien Cyclone Separator lid to make one very similiar to this one, once I draw up the plans to fit my existing 20 gal metal garbage can.

Very Nice job again, VAWOODWORKER. ;D :)

[jfin]

Someone else asked "Does a PLASTIC trash can REALLY work without collapsing"? Please - anyone - post an answer to the question. I'm ready to build, and my plastic trash can is here, but I DON'T want to build the entire thing, only to collapse the container.          Thanx             Jim   

[dbhost]

jfin,

The best answer to does a plastic container buckle used with a Thien is... It depends...

A shop vac pulls MUCH greater static pressure and will buckle most trash cans, dust collectors however, pull lower static pressure, and may, or may not buckle the trash can depending on the can. If you are using a rigid container like a 30 or 55 gallon drum, then no, you won't collapse it, not even with a shop vac, but if you are using one of those nice soft plastic cans like a Rubbermaid or whatever, chances are REALLY good that is the wrong container...

[jfin]

dbhost - very fair response! And, thank you. My plan is a HF 2hp DC, modified to get the blower venting directly into the filter system (no 5" flex hose), and an "on can" separator similar to the one in this thread. Rubbermaid makes some commercial/industrial 32 gal "trash cans", and I see a plastic one in this thread.

Given this info, any more inputs are GREATLY appreciated!   

[bruegf]

Just finished a 5" side inlet galvanized can baffle project - so far I've not had the can collapse, but I used the original metal can lid and I have had that oil can to nearly flat (instead of the slightly dome shape it normally has)

See http://www.jpthien.com/smf/index.php?topic=320.0

Fred

[jfin]

Again, thanks dbhost for your input. Got a note from vawoodworker84. His plastic container is doing fine.  Rubbermaid has a commercial line called BRUTE, and I'll go with the 32 gallon. Let ya'all know how it works out when I get it built.                   Jim

[jfin]

I agree - I really don't have a GOOD reason - or, at least I can't think of one! And, I may go back to metal. We'll see what is available locally.                       Jim

[gregascull]

This is a great build good work.!

I have been lurking here for a while and am in the process of building a very similar design/clone to add to my HF DC unit.  I was wondering about the airflow direction and the intake pipe placement.  Seems to me from the setup in the picture that when the motor/fan unit is on top the air flow is clockwise if looking down at it.    The air flow / cyclone in the topper I am assuming is also in the same direction as the blower unit.  In the picture the debris are coming in at an angle to the airflow around the topper.  In my plans I had the pipe coming in on the other direction on the corner where the intake is located to keep what I assume is the intake getting pulled from the 6" pipe. 

In the pictured design it seems like the debris comes into the topper and makes a hard left.  OR  the airflow is going in the other direction in the topper?  if so then the debris enters the topper and can get sucked directly to the wall of the topper.


Help!!

If it doesn't matter then cool because that would really help my piping location in the shop !

[gregascull]

In the pictured design it seems like the debris comes into the topper and makes a hard left.  OR  the airflow is going in the other direction in the topper?  if so then the debris enters the topper and can get sucked directly to the wall of the topper.

Ok,  So I thought about it and i guess my question can be a lot simpler to ask.   

Is the direction of the cyclone in the topper established by the intake port,  or the impeller on the motor? 

I was assuming that the direction that the cyclone is swirling is established by the fan/impeller?

[phil (admin)]

In the pictured design it seems like the debris comes into the topper and makes a hard left.  OR  the airflow is going in the other direction in the topper?  if so then the debris enters the topper and can get sucked directly to the wall of the topper.

Ok,  So I thought about it and i guess my question can be a lot simpler to ask.   

Is the direction of the cyclone in the topper established by the intake port,  or the impeller on the motor? 

I was assuming that the direction that the cyclone is swirling is established by the fan/impeller?

Intake port.

[gregascull]

Interesting.

I guess I just figured that if there wasn't a topper connected that there is some level of air rotation in the tube connected to the impeller intake.  If that rotation is continued in the separator I figured it would be more efficient.

Probably wouldn't matter even if there was because I would have to have a full 90 bend to accomplish my original plan.  If it doesn't matter what "side" the intake port of the separator comes in on its way easier for me to duct.

Thanks Phil for ALL of your help! 

[sailfl]

I am interested in building this but I have not seen the dimension for the depth of the unit.  Could you please explain.

Thanks

[Bulldog8]

Most people (myself included) use the diameter of the inlet to determine the thickness of the baffle housing. For example, my inlet pipe is 6", so I made the interior height of the separator 6 1/4". Other builds that have the inlet come through the top use the height mandated by the elbow to determine the placement of the baffle. The overall diameter of the baffle itself is determined by the collection container diameter, with the smaller diameter achieving higher rotation speed and an improved cyclonic action. I am sure there is a definite point of diminishing returns on both dimensions.  I've built a baffle based upon a 30 gallon and 5 gallon bucket/barrel have found that both are very efficient.

Steve

[galerdude]

Really explained that well. Bulldog!  ;) Perfect!

[sailfl]

Bulldo8,

You make an interesting comment about the smaller diameter baffle has higher rotation speed and improved cyclone actions.

My question would be why can't you use a 55 gallon container but make the baffle a little smaller?  The container is just a collection unit.  So you would get higher rotation and improved cyclone action but it would collect more material. 

Is the difference going to matter?