Pre-installment questions

[jbg230]

I don't have a "shop".  I have a workroom, and since the dust collector was not something I anticipated, I'm limited as to where it can be installed.  Because of space,  I'm securing the motor unit to the ceiling.  I have a ridiculously tight corner where the DC will be and having the motor "upside down" will allow for the most gradual bend of the hoses to the baffle and impeller.  I have placed the motor every which way, and this is what works in the tight corner space, allows for my bandsaw to be useable in terms of space, and allows for the most efficient run.
I have a Harbor Freight 2HP DC and the Wynn 35A nano filter. I plan on using 5" duct work, whether metal or flex hose, I'm not sure.  I'm acquiring the materials to start on a metal garbage can Thien baffle, placed within the can.

So here are my questions:

1) I like the idea of lining the can with a contractor bag.  I saw a Pinterest diagram of a heavy mesh wire framework of the can placed inside,over the bag.  Has anyone tried this?  There's some chicken wire at Orschlens for $19.00 that would keep the bag in place and make for a much more convenient and probably cleaner way to empty the dust/chips.

2) Does it make any sense to try and use smooth 5" metal duct as much as possible within the run and then use flex hose in the areas that need the flex (in terms of reducing resistance of air flow)? 

I think dbhost has answered or alluded to this.  It makes sense so I'll plan to accomplish this.

3) Is a side inlet port the best way to go for the internal trash can baffle, as opposed to the more common position of the port on the top panel (or lid)? Or are we just splitting hairs?

Sorry. Just found, on page 26, the answer to this question:  Phil says: "Side inlets are great.  A little tougher to implement, but they will improve separation and CFM."   Thanks Phil!
And dbhost said on page 27 said, "I found no performance benefit or hit from going between drums and trash cans. However there is a LARGE performance improvement changing from top load to side inlet."  Thank you too, dbhost.

4.) Does the top panel of the baffle (or lid, if that is used) need to be sealed to the can?  I saw a post about coating the lip on top of the can with silicone,  pressing the lid on, allow to dry and remove the lid. This would create a matching seal and would allow for easy removal to empty the can.  How are others making the connection from lid (or baffle top) to the can?

Found this answer also: Weather stripping or silicone is the consensus.  Seems like omitting the trash can lid and just using the top portion of the baffle as the lid and securing a ring clamp, like on the fiber and plastic drums, would work better though.

The 1st time I read through the posts I didn't have these questions in mind and things were a little over whelming.  A 2nd read through helped to solidify the answers.  I posted my own answers to questions 2,3 and 4 in the off chance it may help someone down the road, by having these come up in a search when looking for opinions to these issues.  I wish I had to time to generate an index of answers to all the components surrounding the Phil Thien baffle.  Thank you to Phil and all who participate here in helping others towards our goal of better air quality.

[nucww]

Comments based on my build:
1) If the baffle is before the impeller, you will need something inside the bag to keep the bag in the collector can from collapsing.  Wire outside the bag would have to have a connection to the bag.   I tried a plastic bag without support and it sucked up to the baffle slot. I do not use a bag.  The mesh inside the bag makes the bag non disposable so you will have to pour it out anyway, so why use a bag?
2) If your run is more than 10 feet, use 5" hvac pipe.  Its relatively inexpensive. Wye connections are expensive but are not too hard to make.  Make sure all the seams are taped.  If you don't, you will lose all the benefit of pipe.  Reduce to 4" and run a few feet down to your equipment.
3) As you noted side entry is best.
4)  I routered a circle groove the same diameter as my can into the bottom of the top hat and I put spongy one sided sticky insulation into the groove.  I wedge the bottom of can up to seal it tight.  If it leaks you will lose air flow.

[jbg230]

Comments based on my build:
1) ... The mesh inside the bag makes the bag non disposable so you will have to pour it out anyway, so why use a bag?

I see that Oneida sells a 0.062" sheet of polyethylene that folds into a cylinder and fits inside a poly bag that sits in the the steel 17 gallon drum they sell for their super dust deputy.  The top of the bag drapes over the rim of the drum and is sealed by the lid.  When the bag is full, just pull out the polyethylene cylinder "liner" and throw the bag away and re-use the cylinder liner again.  It would work like the plastic contraption Home Depot sells to line the tall, brown paper leaf bags. When fit inside the leaf bag, it creates a sort of chute that direct the leaves/grass into the bag.  The plastic liner pulls out easily when the bag is full. (Not a perfect analogy, but the idea is there)
It seems as though that if not chicken wire, maybe a thin flexible plastic cylinder lining the inside of a poly bag, in the barrel or garbage can, would do the trick- allowing easy (and safer) disposal of the saw dust.