Long Ranger Remote Starter Replacement and Upgrade

[retired2]

Here is my version of retired2's ingenious box with only a few minor modifications.  This was an enjoyable build and best of all, it works like a charm.  Note: Even though I used blue insulated spade terminals, the wires (other than the input to the dry switch) are all 12 gauge - solid to the outlet and stranded elsewhere.  Please reply with any observations or critiques.  Thanks.

Nice job Walter.  It looks remarkably familiar!

I assure you it will outlast 10 Long Rangers!

[militarybrat]

Well guys I am a master electrician nice work retired 2. I do mine old school I use a magnetic motor starter with 120 volt coil. Control wiring all machines to their start button. Turn machine on dust collector comes on off is off. My machines are all single phase either 120 or 220. I built lots of control panels and fixed them what i found is to keep it simple stupid. Simple motor starter with simple wiring works best over the long haul by eliminating any electronics and maintenence is  minimal. Don't forget to add single pole switch for turning dust collector on without other machines starting.

There is single phase 120/ 220 that are commonly called A and B phase (even# breakers and odd # breakers) all A phase will NOT short to other A phase breakers same with B phase.

3 phase is A B C same rules apply.

[militarybrat]

Thanks retired 2 ya got my brain working. Gonna draw up some control wiring for shop dust collector. Gonna use electric solinoid to open blast gates one for each gate (default closed). Turn machine on blast gate opens DC starts life is good all easy analog controls. Thinking 24 volt ac for coils in relays that way no voltage wire like cat 5 can be run.120volt to 24 volt ac transformer is a door bell transformer. A single 120 v circuit for selonoids controlled by relays Square D 6 pin ice cube relays. Nice task for me right now.

[retired2]

Thanks for the compliment, "militarybrat".  I don't know if you noticed reply 18 from TX-Lenador.  There is a PDF file at the bottom of that post that contains his schematic for turning on the separator and also opening the blast gate.  I'm not sure if he ever built it or not, so it might not be tested.

[Ex-Tex]

Just a reminder: Anyone can purchase the same model of remote control that you might be using.
Don't want your system to be turned on while you are not in the shop?
Simply power the remote receiver from your overhead light circuit. Then the system can only be turned on while you are present and have your light on.
I am using a remote purchased from the local ACE hardware store. It, in turn controls an external 3 pole relay that is heavy enough to handle the 5 Hp Neeson motor on my ClearVue cyclone with problems at all.
Both the relay and the remote receiver are mounted inside the power panel with all of the circuit breakers.

[retired2]

Just a reminder: Anyone can purchase the same model of remote control that you might be using.
Don't want your system to be turned on while you are not in the shop?
Simply power the remote receiver from your overhead light circuit. Then the system can only be turned on while you are present and have your light on.
I am using a remote purchased from the local ACE hardware store. It, in turn controls an external 3 pole relay that is heavy enough to handle the 5 Hp Neeson motor on my ClearVue cyclone with problems at all.
Both the relay and the remote receiver are mounted inside the power panel with all of the circuit breakers.

i thought about a wireless remote controlled system, but decided I didn't want one.  Remotes get misplaced, it's never where you want it, and it's a lump in your pocket that I don't like when I am working.  If you don't put it in your pocket then you need a place to lay it near each machine so you can grab it again to turn the tool off.  And now you've given me another reason not to want a wireless remote that I hadn't thought of. 

So, I'm very happy with my bell-wired micro switch system, it's cheap and trouble free.  By the way, I don't think any of the discussions in this thread are about a wireless remote start system.  They are all remote start, but with wired controls.

[Chuckl]

I ran across this post and while it is showing its age, it is one of the best I've seen. I have built the remote starter as per your specs but one thing is never explained: the wiring of the micro switches. What gauge wire do you use to connect the micro switches to the remote starter? How are they connected? I believe I saw somewhere that they are connected in parallel, if so, does that mean the pair of wires from each switch are connected to the same terminals at the remote switch with all the other switches?

Thanks for any assistance. Again, great system.

Chuckl

[retired2]

I ran across this post and while it is showing its age, it is one of the best I've seen. I have built the remote starter as per your specs but one thing is never explained: the wiring of the micro switches. What gauge wire do you use to connect the micro switches to the remote starter? How are they connected? I believe I saw somewhere that they are connected in parallel, if so, does that mean the pair of wires from each switch are connected to the same terminals at the remote switch with all the other switches?

Thanks for any assistance. Again, great system.

Chuckl

I think I used 24 gauge wire, not sure where I got it.  I suspect you could use any gauge because no voltage is passed through it from the relay. The micro switches are wired in parallel.  I only have two pairs of wire returning to my remote because I have two mains in my dust collection system.  Each main has several drops with micro switches on each blast gate.  The switches on each main are wired in parallel and daisy-chained one after another.  I just tape the wire to my ductwork with duct tape.

[Chuckl]

Thanks. That was what I suspected (the wire gauge). Thanks for the help.