Long Ranger Remote Starter Replacement and Upgrade

[retired2]

Retired2, you are on the right track to use a current sensor on each circuit that runs a machine. The sensor will need to trip a DPST (DPDT) relay. One set of contacts will go to trigger the DC and the other set of contacts will trigger the mechanism for the blast gate. The set of contacts on each DPDT relay that triggers the DC are wired in parallel so it doesn't matter which machine is turned on it will trigger the DC. If you add the delay off then you get the DC running after the machine is off to clear the line or keep it from cycling off if starting another machine (or multiple cuts on CMS). Hope this makes sense. If I get time in the next few days I will try to draw up a schematic.

Actually, it is probably JonWho that you should be addressing, because he is the one who is planning to take my design several steps further to meet his needs.  At least for now, my needs are being met perfectly.

But yes, I think I understand what you are saying.  If I am correct, you are suggesting a contactor for each machine.  The Hawkeye current sensor would provide the low voltage power to the coil side of the contactor.  One pole of each contactor would be wired in parallel with the others to turn on the DC, but the second pole of each contactor would be wired only to the blast gate actuator of the respective current sensor. 

My contactor cost about $10-$12, so having to purchase one for each machine is not going to break the bank.  But there might be some voltage mismatches with all these devices and that might require adding a transformer somewhere.

If JonWho desires a stop-delay, then that design needs to be worked out.  There might be a cheaper solution than the Macromatic that I used, because not all of its functionality would be needed.  But it would probably work by just putting it in the DC circuit.  No trigger is needed if the NC #9 output terminal is used.  This terminal is always hot when there is power to the Macromatic.  No trigger needs to be present.  Hmmm... now that I think about it, the stop delay might be dependent on the trigger cycling power rather than just cycling the incoming power.  If that is the case, there is more design to be done, unless you have that part worked out too.

Probably the best way for us all to be sure what you are proposing is for you to post a schematic.   

[JonWho?]

Looks like that's gonna have to wait. I went into my wood shop to move a shelf. Then OCD kicked in & I tore the place apart to remodel.

[JonWho?]

Retired2, you are on the right track to use a current sensor on each circuit that runs a machine. The sensor will need to trip a DPST (DPDT) relay. One set of contacts will go to trigger the DC and the other set of contacts will trigger the mechanism for the blast gate. The set of contacts on each DPDT relay that triggers the DC are wired in parallel so it doesn't matter which machine is turned on it will trigger the DC. If you add the delay off then you get the DC running after the machine is off to clear the line or keep it from cycling off if starting another machine (or multiple cuts on CMS). Hope this makes sense. If I get time in the next few days I will try to draw up a schematic.

On second thought, Feel free to draw something up at your leisure. It will just be here when I get around to it. Thank you for offering. You'll probably come up with something better than I would!

[TX_Lenador]

Here are two schematics. The first does not require a micro-switch on the blast gate to turn on the DC. The second uses the micro-switch system to start the DC. All are welcome to use at your own risk. If you have any questions please let me know.

Here are a few links to videos on the blast gate actuation. A quick search for automated blast gates will find a number of videos.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=60PuJGupZOo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kRYGxGNrfk

[retired2]

Really nice job on the schematics TX!  Obviously you have a lot more knowledge and experience with this stuff than me.  There is so much good information in your post, it would be a shame for it to get lost in a thread titled Long Ranger.  It might not be a bad idea to start a new thread with a title that would allow "searchers" to find it in the future.

For the number of hours I spend in my shop, I can't justify adding blast gate actuators, but it sure looks like it would be a really fun project.

[JonWho?]

Awesome!
This may be the most helpful group on the Internet.

I know everyone has better things to do than answer questions online.
Or taking the time to draw schematics & include links. Great job drawing those TX!

I work with mobile electronics which is why I said it would be simple if I went 12v DC.
I'm a little out of my element with this.

The schematics TX posted makes it easy. Especially compared to what I was planning that consisted of building a 12vdc switching system, which would have me hunting down parts that may or may not exist!

Thank you both.

[slharman1]

Retired2,
I am very interested in the parts lists and source for your DC controller.
Please send me the info
Thanks
Steve

[retired2]

Steve,

Here's the list.  I think the hardest items for me to find were the spade connectors that allow you to land two wires on the same terminal.  If you build one exactly like mine, you will need two of those in the yellow size.  If I find where I bought them I'll let you know. 

For what it is worth, this Long Ranger replacement has been working like a champ, unlike the numerous Long Rangers that seem to last about 1 year.  I checked recently to see what they were selling for and it looks like the 150V version has been discontinued - I can understand why.


NBF 32014 NEMA Box   Approx. 7"x7"x5"     Mouser Electronics $23.65
NSI Industries Tork C412H Timer                 Amazon $23.59   
Packard Contactor C130B                            Amazon $11.95
Arlington Strain Relief LPCG50-1   1/2"         Amazon $5.48
Leviton 5361-E 20Amp Receptacle                Amazon $14.60
Macromatic THR-3816U Multi-function Relay  Zoro  $49.82
Wire and Connectors                                    Various $20

Total cost approx. $150

[slharman1]

Thanks

[El Duderino]

Hate to resurface such an old thread, but I found this very useful but had a few questions.

Did you ever remember where you found the spade connectors?  I have never seen any like that.  Also, where did you get the screw down wire terminals?  That is a nice clean touch.

Thanks!

[retired2]

Hate to resurface such an old thread, but I found this very useful but had a few questions.

Did you ever remember where you found the spade connectors?  I have never seen any like that.  Also, where did you get the screw down wire terminals?  That is a nice clean touch.

Thanks!

The screw down wire terminals were cannabilized from one of my "fried" Long Rangers, so I have no idea where you could find those.  The spade connectors might have come from Amazon.  I'll check my orders and let you know.

[retired2]

Hate to resurface such an old thread, but I found this very useful but had a few questions.

Did you ever remember where you found the spade connectors?  I have never seen any like that.  Also, where did you get the screw down wire terminals?  That is a nice clean touch.

Thanks!

The screw down wire terminals were cannabilized from one of my "fried" Long Rangers, so I have no idea where you could find those.  The spade connectors might have come from Amazon.  I'll check my orders and let you know.

Well, I didn't buy them from Amazon, so I have no clue where I found them in small quantities.  Do a search  on "piggyback spade connectors" and you will probably find them.  Or search "Thomas and Betts", a manufacturer.  Forget the big box stores, or even Radio Shack, they won't have them.

[Walter Sobchak]

Hi retired2,  I've been using the 110V version of the Long Ranger Multigate for more than 15 years now.  It is fantastic.  I have 12 blast gates hooked up to it and it definitely makes dust collection extremely convenient.  The only issue is that it regularly gets stuck in the "on-only" position.  When this happens, I bang the control box on the shop floor and then it works as good as new.  (Seriously.)  After performing this brutish reset dozens and dozens of times, my first unit finally bit the dust and for the past couple of years I've been using a second unit.  I got that one right around the time PSI discontinued this model but still had some inventory in stock.  Now, I am worried this one, too, is on it's way out.  Even if I could find a replacement, I'd like one that was heavier duty than the original PSI unit.

In short, I'd like to build your brilliant version of this.  I see the parts list above - thanks.  I'm not sure I need the timer, though.  (I, too, have always been worried that one of the blast gates would wiggle open, but this has never happened.  And, whenever I go out of town, I always turn off the main power to the dust collector.)  So, I'm wondering if you can give me tips for revising your design without the timer function.  Sorry, I know this should be obvious but I'm a novice at electronics.  Thanks.

[retired2]

Hi retired2,  I've been using the 110V version of the Long Ranger Multigate for more than 15 years now.  It is fantastic.  I have 12 blast gates hooked up to it and it definitely makes dust collection extremely convenient.  The only issue is that it regularly gets stuck in the "on-only" position.  When this happens, I bang the control box on the shop floor and then it works as good as new.  (Seriously.)  After performing this brutish reset dozens and dozens of times, my first unit finally bit the dust and for the past couple of years I've been using a second unit.  I got that one right around the time PSI discontinued this model but still had some inventory in stock.  Now, I am worried this one, too, is on it's way out.  Even if I could find a replacement, I'd like one that was heavier duty than the original PSI unit.

In short, I'd like to build your brilliant version of this.  I see the parts list above - thanks.  I'm not sure I need the timer, though.  (I, too, have always been worried that one of the blast gates would wiggle open, but this has never happened.  And, whenever I go out of town, I always turn off the main power to the dust collector.)  So, I'm wondering if you can give me tips for revising your design without the timer function.  Sorry, I know this should be obvious but I'm a novice at electronics.  Thanks.

Unfortunately Dropbox has done something again so all my links are broken and you probably cannot see the wiring schematic included in this thread. 

If you by chance printed it out, it is a simple task to eliminate the timer.  Simply land the black wire from the SJ cord on terminal 2 of the Delay Relay, and land the white wire from the SJ cord on terminal 3 of the Relay.  The wire nut splice is no longer needed because the ground wire is part of the timer which no longer exists. 

[Walter Sobchak]

Here is my version of retired2's ingenious box with only a few minor modifications.  This was an enjoyable build and best of all, it works like a charm.  Note: Even though I used blue insulated spade terminals, the wires (other than the input to the dry switch) are all 12 gauge - solid to the outlet and stranded elsewhere.  Please reply with any observations or critiques.  Thanks.