Questions Jet DC650

[tenfingers]

I recently bought a used Jet DC650 and would like to build a "Top Hat" separator for it.

With its one horsepower motor and small fan (650 cfm claimed) should I bother to enlarge the air inlet to five or six inches between the collector and the separator?

I don't plan on running shop wide ductwork. I plan to roll it from machine to machine and connect the separator to the machines with four inch flex hose. My machines all have four inch ports now.

Also is there a reason for the use of clear plastic for the separator other than looks? I have sheet metal and Formica in my scrap pile that I would use instead. For the top and bottom I plan to use melamine.

Any reason not to use these materials? I can't think of any but I've never built one of these before.

Many more questions to come.

Thanks

[Dougp28704]

Sheet metal would be fine. I am using clear polycarbonate just so I can see what?s going on inside the separator. I would think melamine would be fine as well.

[Peter]

I used aluminum flashing. Other than you can't see through it, it works fine.

I do recommend making some provision to easily open the separator to remove the occasional clog in the drop slot.

[tenfingers]

Does the drop slot clog often?

Maybe the reason for the clear sides.

Couldnt I just take it off the can and sweep it out with the shop vac?

[Bulldog8]

I've never had my drop slot clog, but the clear sides let me know when it's time to empty the can. The odd swirling I get when the can is almost full cues me to empty it. That may also help to not clog by overfilling.

Steve

[Dougp28704]

I think you could easily get any clog out with a shop vac from the underside of the baffle.

[Peter]

I don't know about clogging in a large-diameter duct system--my first Thien separator was made for my shop vac. The vac has such high static pressure that it sucks up all kinds of big things, even through the 2 1/2" hose. Such as baggies, pieces of cardboard, etc.
And some of these wrap around the support strut I provided to keep the middle of the baffle from flopping about.

Regardless, it seems to me to be poor planning to not provide some way to get inside a cavity in any vacuum system, because the alternative is disassembly!

[Dougp28704]

That is true. I didnt consider the inside strut. My design doesnt have an inside baffle support. I made a .75 thick bottom piece (that fits in the container with an offest slot) to support the baffle. Peter is right, if a piece of cardboard or bag got in there, even without the strut, I would be clogged.

[Peter]

I've even had hand plane shavings--those gorgeous long curls you get from a properly tuned plane--pack up at the end of the slot so that overall efficiency of the unit was compromised.

My first separator has a removable top. The one I have planned, which will have a blower close-coupled to the top, will have a removable bottom.

[Dougp28704]

Peter, good idea. I wish this came up last night. I just assembled mine late this afternoon. :(

[Peter]

Make a hatch in the middle of the baffle that you can reach your hand through. You could fasten it on the bottom side of the baffle with a hinge and toggle, that wouldn't interrupt the air flow inside the cyclone area.

[tenfingers]

Ok, now another question.  What clear plastic should I use? I've read that plexiglass is hard to bend and is prone to cracking.It also changes size with temprature changes. Clearview uses PTEG. Other than that, I don't know of anything about it. I don't know about any others. What I would like would be clear, easy to use, last a long time and be cheap. I don't want much do I?  :)

[jgt1942]

I just talked to a rep from Curbell (see http://www.curbellplastics.com) he stated that to cold roll PETG you would have to use 1/8" thick or less and he recommended polycarbonate because the PETG would turn yellow over time.

I've see other units that people have made with clear plastic of some type. I think it best to contact them and see what their procedure was and what they suggest.