my top hat

[Latham]

This may look suspicously like Retired2's project. Mine has a 4" intake/outlet

I built everything out of scrap, except the seal and the acrylic. The bottom is made from 3/4" CDX, the sidewall supports from MDF, the baffle from 1/4" subfloor ply. The top is 1/2" BB over a sheet of plexiglass. The sidewall is 1/8" baltic birch.

You can view how I made my intake here: http://www.jpthien.com/smf/index.php?topic=1117.0

I purchased the plastic bellmouth from Parts express for $5 plus shipping: (Precision Port PSP-4IF 4" Inside Flare for Port Tube
Item# 268-377)



I added a 3/16" rod to support the baffel but after it started to capture lathe turnings I removed it. I think the baffel has plenty of support with the 3/4" ply support.

Works like a champ. Thanks Phil! (and Retired2). ;D

L

[BorgDog]

Cool, I like the clear top with cross supports.

[BernardNaish]

Hi, love the build particularly the clear top. I am interested in the metal dust bin (trash can) you have used because the Brute is so expensive here in England. What size is it, price etc. Ta!  Bernard

[Latham]

Hi, love the build particularly the clear top. I am interested in the metal dust bin (trash can) you have used because the Brute is so expensive here in England. What size is it, price etc. Ta!  Bernard

Bernard:

It's a 32 gallon can. I can't recall how much I paid for it, but knowing me, it wasn't over $35. I'm sure I bought it at my local hardware store here in the U.S. It works well.

I think one needs some sort of window into a top hat to make sure his favorite screwdriver isn't wedged into the drop slot.

L

[johns-mpls]

I think the clear top might give a good perspective for viewing the dust swirl. One could see how well it hangs above the drop slot. And without any of the issues trying to form curves with the plastic. Wondering about the ring diameter. Helps me with perspective and ideas for sizing my own future builds. Nice work.

[Latham]

The diameter of the separator is about 21.5". I assume that's what you're asking.

Fortunately my scrap 1/8" baltic birch plywood was 5' long. I gave it two coats of poly before I attached it –which is quite easy as long as you cut the piece so it bends with the grain. I used TBII and a 1/4" crown stapler.

L

[BernardNaish]

johns-mpls. The problems forming the curved chamber sides with a clear plastic only arise when acrylic plastic ( Perspex, Plexiglass etc) is used. Acrylic is too hard and notoriously brittle so is not sutable for bendy applications. Retired2's design makes installing any circular wall very easy be it plastic, steel or any other bendy material because of his cunning way of trapping the ends. Fixing screws are not needed. If polycarbonate is used no problems will be encountered. Plastics are far smoother than most other materials so a polycarbonate wall is probably the best solution.

Acrylic is however very good with flat applications as Latham has used it in his build although much more expensive than polycarbonate.

I have also had more problems with long curly shavings from the lathe than anything else. In my case hanging up on the end of the slot. I have also had problems with the relatively long shavings from my thicknesser when I have been working with some hard pine. Thinning and rounding the end has not solved this problem yet.

I will have to build a "proper" top hat for my Club once I have completed my backlog of projects. I intend to build a variable height version as I have detailed on this forum. I think I will include a clear plastic top plate and leave out the support rod.

I notice we are getting a lot of very interesting improvements to the Thien top hat yet none are too difficult for the average woodworker. Still inexpensive. Still easy to make. Possibly as effective as a cyclone.

[Mike F]

Hi Latham; Love the clear top - it makes a lot of sense. I was a bit concerned with my polycarbonate wall as I often machine aluminium and wondered whether the chips would scratch the plastic. Your idea of the clear top negates that problem all together. Nice one  8)

[johns-mpls]

The diameter of the separator is about 21.5". I assume that's what you're asking.

Yes, thanks. You had already mentioned 4" in/out, but I couldn't get that to size up in my head for the separator diameter.

johns-mpls. The problems forming the curved chamber sides with a clear plastic only arise when acrylic plastic ( Perspex, Plexiglass etc) is used. Acrylic is too hard and notoriously brittle so is not sutable for bendy applications. Retired2's design makes installing any circular wall very easy be it plastic, steel or any other bendy material because of his cunning way of trapping the ends. Fixing screws are not needed. If polycarbonate is used no problems will be encountered. Plastics are far smoother than most other materials so a polycarbonate wall is probably the best solution.

Acrylic is however very good with flat applications as Latham has used it in his build although much more expensive than polycarbonate.

Thanks, Bernard, that is encouraging as I am considering curving some polycarbonate for an upcoming project. Around here the polycarbonate is more expensive. And I fully concur on retired2's design.

I notice we are getting a lot of very interesting improvements to the Thien top hat yet none are too difficult for the average woodworker. Still inexpensive. Still easy to make. Possibly as effective as a cyclone.

And that is what is so fascinating to me as much as the practical aspect of good dust collection. Having been reading on the forum for a short time it has all been on a compressed time-line to me. It has been a good ride so far.  :D   I am reminding myself of my own actual in-real-life pace as a touchstone for expectations.