55 gallon drum separator started.

[tommitytomtom]

I've been toying with the idea of building a 55 gallon drum tophat separator. I stumbled upon a stupid-cheap Reliant 3hp 2 bagger at the local Habitat Resale store. I'll use 1 drum  for the collection and part of another for the tophat. I got started last weekend so here's what I have so far. Some drums have a rib ringed in thirds so the tophat will be 1/3 the height of the collection drum. I did this because the bottom of the rib fits nicely into the open top of the collection drum. All I need to seal it is some foam weather stripping. I think the weight will keep it in place. If not I can easily add clamps. I also used one inlet port from the bag ring of the collector as my side inlet to the tophat. This will make it easy I think for servicing and connection to a hose or pipe system.

[tommitytomtom]

Not much work over the last several days but did manage to cut out the baffle and install for fitment. The rest of the work today consisted of dismantling the dust collector down to the motor, fan housing and mounting bracket. I may weld up a frame to mount the motor/blower housing vertically to allow me to place the suction side directly over the tophat with a short 6" flex hose. Eventually, I'd like to mount the motor/blower housing on the wall in the corner of my shop but I'll need to move some equipment waiting to be restored to use. The baffle itself is 5/8" MDF scrap. I pre-drilled holes in the edge and then added one 5/16" threaded rod for support (not pictured). More later. I've been toying with the idea of adding an "air ramp" to help direct the air/sawdust downward. This will be a later experiment.

[retired2]

Nice work!  Only one comment, I would have chosen a thinner material for the baffle.  If a stiffener is needed for the baffle, set it back from the drop slot.

[tommitytomtom]

My other baffles have been 3/4" thick MDF as others that I've seen here. Given the large diameter, I would have liked to use 3/4" but 5/8 was all I had.

[retired2]

I'm not saying a thicker baffle won't work, but when plugs occur from shavings, they invariably start at the end of the drop slot and quickly back up to close off the entire slot.  The thicker the baffle, the easier it is for waste to get hung up at the end of the slot.

If you don't generate waste with long shavings, it may never be a problem.  Planers are the biggest culprit, but if you are fortunate enough to own a cutter head with segmented knives, you won't get long shavings.  However, if it were me, as a minimum I would take a wood rasp and undercut the end of the drop slot, and then smooth it so there is less chance of waste hang up.

[tommitytomtom]

I see what you mean. Perhaps I'll widen the drop slot as it nears the end and shave the underside. I will have a jointer and planer connected to this system.

[retired2]

I can't tell how big your drop slot is from the photos, but it looks pretty normal.  Mine is 1-1/8", not because that is the "correct" width, but simply because it seemed to be the consensus at the time for an average width. 

As I said, it is the end of the drop slot that is where a plug will start, so give that a little attention.  If you want to go a little further just undercut the entire slot by a little.  If you have a chamfer bit with a pilot bearing, just run your router around the underside of the slot.  It will do a nice job and not weaken the baffle.

[tommitytomtom]

Currently, the drop slot is 1 1/2". I chose this because of the assumed amount of CFM the motor/impeller are supposed to flow. Yes, undercutting the baffle will help airflow and I think as I enlarge the slot near the end, I'll round or teardrop the end as well. Only testing will yield the results, which I'll post here. Now,....off to re-arrange my shop.

[retired2]

Currently, the drop slot is 1 1/2". I chose this because of the assumed amount of CFM the motor/impeller are supposed to flow. Yes, undercutting the baffle will help airflow and I think as I enlarge the slot near the end, I'll round or teardrop the end as well. Only testing will yield the results, which I'll post here. Now,....off to re-arrange my shop.

I don't remember seering seeing any correlation between CFM and drop slot width.  The only thing I recall, maybe not correctly, is that narrow drop slots work better for finer waste and wider slots are better for very coarse waste. 

Since must woodworkers produce both kinds of waste, the best thing to do is avoid extremes.  I don't think there is anything wrong with 1-1/2", but I certainly wouldn't make it any larger.  Even at 1-1/8" my only plugs occurred while planing wet cypress.  And when I say wet, I don't mean "green", I mean water being squeezed ahead of the pressure rollers.  That creates shavings 6" long, and almost certain plugs.  A larger drop slot would still have plugged under those conditions.

[tommitytomtom]

No real work on this new design for me. A back injury has kept me limited to 15lbs of weight limit. Getting better, Doc visit today.

[retired2]

I have first hand experience with back pain, so you have my sympathy and wishes for a good recovery.

I always cringe when I see people building separators with large drums.  When it comes time to empty them it is a job, and not one for someone recovering from a back injury.  And the problem is compounded it the large drum is heavy without any waste.

My advice is build a smaller separator made of lighter material.

[tommitytomtom]

I'm back at it. (pun intended) As the motor/impeller have always been mounted horizontally, I've decided to go with the same configuration as the bearings don't have good axial load characteristics. If the bearings in the motor were tapered, then I would go vertically and mount the blower and motor above the tophat with room to remove the tophat for emptying the drum. I had hoped to mount the motor to the wall using its mounting plate but now I think I'll utilize the cart bed and set the motor/impellar on an elevated horizontal mount with a 6" sweeping curve to the top of the tophat. Pics to come soon.


Edit now with pics.

The first picture is a collar that will hold the pipe going to the blower unit. The second is the pipe mounter and sealed with polyurethane sealant. The pipe extends into the center to  about 4" above the baffle. The total distance from the baffle to the top is 8 1/2". I can adjust if needed but for now this will be the starting point.

[tommitytomtom]

More work accomplished this weekend. I decided instead of permanently mounting the collector for now, that I could use the original base and not take up any more floorium than needed. as I had decided the motor would be best suited for horizontal mounting, I built a stand the get the blower to a height that would accommodate removal of the 90 degree bend into the top hat. The frame was welded together using bed frame metal. Anyone familiar with bed frame material will understand that it is hard to bend, hard to drill and welds nicely. The first picture show the stand in place and the second pic shows a mostly complete, unfinished paint job but a proof of concept. I'll power it up with a new circuit added to the shop.

[tommitytomtom]

Almost done. More painting to come and a new circuit in the shop but here's a link to a short video. https://youtu.be/vuLWAyMRF8c

[Billy_6_Gun]

Not much work over the last several days but did manage to cut out the baffle and install for fitment. The rest of the work today consisted of dismantling the dust collector down to the motor, fan housing and mounting bracket. I may weld up a frame to mount the motor/blower housing vertically to allow me to place the suction side directly over the tophat with a short 6" flex hose. Eventually, I'd like to mount the motor/blower housing on the wall in the corner of my shop but I'll need to move some equipment waiting to be restored to use. The baffle itself is 5/8" MDF scrap. I pre-drilled holes in the edge and then added one 5/16" threaded rod for support (not pictured). More later. I've been toying with the idea of adding an "air ramp" to help direct the air/sawdust downward. This will be a later experiment.

Just wondering if you had a chance to experiment with an air ramp?