Needing to start on 4" model.

[dbhost]

This weekend I am buying myself a late Christmas present, a Delta 50-760 DC, I have a 30 gallon galvanized trash can ready to go, and even have the disk and baffle for the separator lid cut out, and the rabbet cut. (Used 3/4" MDF and 1/8" hardboard respectively). I have the spacer studs, nuts, and washers ready and waiting, and I am wondering about the plubming...

On my 2.5" model, I simply used a 2.5" hole saw to cut my holes. What do I use for the 4" stuff? I am thinking about drilling out a pilot hole, and using my jigsaw and a rasp to make the holes.

Do I use actual 4" S&D non perforated PVC for this? I am thinking a street elbow, and a simple nipple to connect the hoses to via clamps. I want everything as straight as possbile...

I am considering coming in through the side of the can, but how do I get the inlet in over the baffle to allow for the cyclonic action reliably? Basically, how would this be indexed?

[phil (admin)]

I actually made a template out of hardboard first.  I got it as perfect as possible.  Then I used it to mark a circle on my lids and I rough it out w/ a jig saw.  Finally, I carpet table the template to the top and use a piloted bit to do the final trimming.

[dbhost]

Well, a little late to the party here I must admit. The 50-760 that WAS on sale apparently went out of stock before Rockler even opened their doors, and regular price on that DC, along WITH the required add ons to plumb my system priced it out of my price range...

Harbor Freight however put the newer model 2HP (20amp ostensibly) DC on sale, and then gave me a 20% off coupon. For $143.00 how could I resist right?

So the system will be based off of a Harbor Freight DC. No biggie...

So step #1. Get DC. Done.
Step #2. Get MDF for project. Done.
Step #3. Get all thread, washers, nuts, and lock nuts. Done.
Step #4. Get hoses, fittings, Wyes etc... to connect DC system to tools with 4" ports. Next pay period.
Step #5. Figure out what size fittings I need as far as the PVC is concerned. I THINK I can connect 4" hose directly to 4" S&D, but I am not sure. Obtain said fittings, and nipples if needed. In process, waitign for hoses and such to come in.
Step #6. Get drum, or 30 gallon trash can. In process.
Step #7. Lay out and cut lid, route rabbet in lid. Pending can or drum.
Step #8. Lay out and cut 4-1/8" holes for S&D fittings to pass through. Pending Step #7.
Step #9. Lay out, and cut separator disk part out of 1/2" plywood. (It's what I have on hand). Pending Step #8.
Step #10. Lay out S&D fittings in their proper direction, line up separator disk with proper rotation direction of lid. Double and triple check, provide ample room for fittings, and drill holes for spacer all thread. Pending Step #9.
Step #11. Sand down drum side of elbow to be able to tuck it in as close as physically possible to the drum, dry fit it, and verify fittment and orientation. Pending Step #10.
Step #12. Position and hot glue both elbow and center outlet nipple into place. Fully seal the connections with hot glue. Pending Step #11.
Step #13. Assemble lid, separator disk, and spacers. Pending step #12.
Step #14. Since I can't have 13 steps, install on drum / trash can, connect hoses, and TEST.

I am not certain, but there is a possibility that I may want to paint this one. MDF when primed up and painted well can have a nice finish, and make the separator look very professional. I might just want to add that detail to mine...

[phil (admin)]

I am not certain, but there is a possibility that I may want to paint this one. MDF when primed up and painted well can have a nice finish, and make the separator look very professional. I might just want to add that detail to mine...

One of my claims to fame was discovering that Duplicolor Truck Bed Coating (in spray cans) works great with MDF.  It is extremely durable.  And, due to its texture, doesn't require a great deal of prep time.  The only problem is that it comes only in black (or did at the time, maybe they've changed that).

To use it I laid down a couple of coats of satin black on the MDF first.  Just a rattle can.  Again, the Duplicolor is going to hid any imperfections so don't go nuts.

After the satin dried, I laid down a coat of the Truck Bed Coating.

It isn't for everyone.  But it is durable.  I have some of the speakers playing now that I did well over a decade ago and they still look like the day I sprayed them.

[dbhost]

I like that idea...

I'm a truck kind of guy anyway, so this will work well for me!

Progress on the steps so far...

Step #1. Get DC. Done.
Step #2. Get MDF for project. Done.
Step #3. Get all thread, washers, nuts, and lock nuts. Done.
Step #4. Get hoses, fittings, Wyes etc... to connect DC system to tools with 4" ports. Next pay period.
Step #5. Figure out what size fittings I need as far as the PVC is concerned. I THINK I can connect 4" hose directly to 4" S&D, but I am not sure. Obtain said fittings, and nipples if needed. In process, waitign for hoses and such to come in.
Step #6. Get drum, or 30 gallon trash can. Done. 30 gallon galvanized trash can.
Step #7. Lay out and cut lid, route rabbet in lid. Pending can or drum.
Step #8. Lay out and cut 4-1/8" holes for S&D fittings to pass through. Pending Step #7.
Step #9. Lay out, and cut separator disk part out of 1/2" plywood. (It's what I have on hand). Pending Step #8.
Step #10. Lay out S&D fittings in their proper direction, line up separator disk with proper rotation direction of lid. Double and triple check, provide ample room for fittings, and drill holes for spacer all thread. Pending Step #9.
Step #11. Sand down drum side of elbow to be able to tuck it in as close as physically possible to the drum, dry fit it, and verify fittment and orientation. Pending Step #10.
Step #12. Position and hot glue both elbow and center outlet nipple into place. Fully seal the connections with hot glue. Pending Step #11.
Step #13. Assemble lid, separator disk, and spacers. Pending step #12.
Step #14. Since I can't have 13 steps, install on drum / trash can, connect hoses, and TEST.

I grabbed the rest of the goodies to make the cyclone separator, aside from finishing, and am ready to build it, but need the hose and plumbing for the rest of the DC system.

[bennybmn]

With a little stretching, you CAN fit 4" hose on some PVC fittings... but Rockler and other places sell PVC to DC conversion fittings that definitely work! Look into that.

As for the inlet on the side, there's no need for it to protrude into the can.  Whatever you have goign into the side of the can, just cut it flush with the inside of the can, and your baffle will slide right by.

I like the truck lining idea too!

[dbhost]

Step #7. Lay out and cut lid, route rabbet in lid. Pending can or drum. DONE. Sort of...

I cut the rabbet too deep (I eyeballed that instead of measuring, I'm dumb like that sometimes...) so now the lid is loose on the can...

I figure a good solution would be to take some foam weatherstrip tape to make up the gap, and provide a good seal. Will provide more info on that as it becomes available...

I need to wait until next payday to order the hose I want... Will post progress, and pics...

[dbhost]

Progress on the steps so far...

Step #1. Get DC. Done.
Step #2. Get MDF for project. Done.
Step #3. Get all thread, washers, nuts, and lock nuts. Done.
Step #4. Get hoses, fittings, Wyes etc... to connect DC system to tools with 4" ports. Also order Wynn filter. Done.
Step #5. Figure out what size fittings I need as far as the PVC is concerned. I THINK I can connect 4" hose directly to 4" S&D, but I am not sure. Obtain said fittings, and nipples if needed. In process, waiting for hoses and such to come in.
Step #6. Get drum, or 30 gallon trash can. Done. 30 gallon galvanized trash can.
Step #7. Lay out and cut lid, route rabbet in lid. Going with 3/4" ply I have on hand. Measurements corrected, router set up, need to just make the cuts...
Step #8. Lay out and cut 4-1/8" holes for S&D fittings to pass through. Pending Step #7.
Step #9. Lay out, and cut separator disk part out of 1/2" plywood. (It's what I have on hand). Done, out of MDF though. I wasn't happy with the initial lid I made so I turned it into the baffle. I AM happy with the fit as the baffle.
Step #8.
Step #10. Lay out S&D fittings in their proper direction, line up separator disk with proper rotation direction of lid. Double and triple check, provide ample room for fittings, and drill holes for spacer all thread. Pending Step #9.
Step #11. Sand down drum side of elbow to be able to tuck it in as close as physically possible to the drum, dry fit it, and verify fittment and orientation. Pending Step #10.
Step #12. Position and hot glue both elbow and center outlet nipple into place. Fully seal the connections with hot glue. Pending Step #11.
Step #13. Assemble lid, separator disk, and spacers. Pending step #12.
Step #14. Since I can't have 13 steps, install on drum / trash can, connect hoses, and TEST.

I may be slow completing the project, but considering what else is going on, I am making good headway...

[dbhost]

I am left with needing to drill for and install the standoffs, hot glue things into place, and hook it all up...

I have a TON on my plate for this next week, and probably won't be able to get back to it until next weekend. At that point, I am going to stack the cans, and DC / Vac in the corner, and most likely start on rearranging the DC plumbing...

Such fun...