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Messages - Jack

#1
I completed the build of the Top Hat a have to give all the credit to Phil and to Retired2's pictures and narrative.  I don't think I would have ever come up with the design without Retired2's good work.  I suppose it took me 4 half days to get it all done.  There are just so many steps and I guess my old "measure twice" or more and then think about it slowed me down.   
Anyway, I took Retired2's advise and built the walls out of a roll of 6" aluminum used for gutter flashing I had laying around.  I predrilled the holes for pan head screws in the aluminum and then glued it on to the wall rings, and then screwed it down tight.  I then ran a bead of silicone around the outside of the wall.  I built it all out of a scrap piece of MDF I had, and the baffle was made from a scrap piece of  1/4" Melamine.  I did not take any pictures, because all my parts look just like Retired2's pictures with one exception.  Retired2 built his inlet out of metal, and mine is all wood.  The top and bottom pieces of my build, all have a wing on them similar to the attached modified picture, which I "borrowed" from Retired2.  In that picture I added a wing (black line) to the top and bottom for the inlet.  It is about 8 inched long and 4"x6".  I framed in the sides with regular wood.  When I cut the baffle I was surprised at what I thought was the possibility that it might vibrate in the wind, so I installed a 1/8" rod for stability like Retired2 did.  However, I think that others might consider the red line in the picture, which could be a part of the bottom jetting out from the side to support the baffle.   Like the wing for the inlet, this could be a part that was not cut out when making the inside of the ring for the bottom.  It would provide the needed baffle support and might not interfere with the performance, but someone else with more experience, would have to judge that.
As for the performance of the Top Hat, about all I can say is that it works great.  I emptied the bag on the D/C into a trash bag and then began gently vacuuming small  amounts of debris.  At first I was very careful about the amount being vacuumed, but as time went on, I finally buried the hose into the bag and was surprised to see that nothing was getting by the separator.  One nice thing about the separator, is that it keeps the large chips from going on to the D/C.  Before I could hear the chips hitting the fan blades, so I suspect that the separator will add to the longevity of the D/C.
The next part of this project is to install metal duct work  from the D/C to the separator, which will be moved to the center of the floor and attached to a machine (planner, saw, router cabinet, sander, etc.)  via the current 4" hose.  The D/C has a 4 7/8" inlet, so it would be nice to have a swivel on the pipe that could swing out to the separator.  I looked at Rockler and they want  $23.00 for a 5 foot section.  Home Depot charges $8.00, but probably not just the correct size.  There must be a way to use heating duct work.  The other alternative is to buy another 10' section of 4" flex hose, and run it to the separator, but I believe that it would degrade the performance of the collection system if I use too much flex hose.  Any thoughts on this matter would be appreciated.

Thanks again Phil and Retired2
#2
So, absent a deswirler, is there a better side of the hat to make the inlet?  Clockwise or counter clockwise?
#3
Thanks Retired2,

I have all I need now.  I have on hand a roll of 8 inch metal so with your advise, that is what I will use for the wall.  All the necessary wood is in my scrap bin.  I even have some plexiglass left over from the door window on my router cabinet build, which I  might inlay into the bottom of the top of the hat.  For sure I will make the inlet a rectangle.  I have your plans and photos to use as my guide and I can't thank you enough for the help.  I use this link for your plans http://www.jpthien.com/smf/index.php?topic=563.0.  By the way, your hand drawing really helped in showing details which the  photos only implied.
Jack
#4
I am in the same place as you are and have settled on the same specs, but I am not sure of the walls.  When this darn snow ends I plan to cruse HD and Lowes to find something.  I have even thought of bending 1/8 inch hardboard and screwing it to the sides to the rings.  You can have a dado on the top for the wall, but from what I have read, you can't have a dado at the bottom, because that will leave an edge next to the "C" on the baffle.  There must be something that is bendable and screwable.  The laminate idea will work, but will the Contact Cement stand up to the suction/abuse?  I am stuck in "wall hell".  I need a push.
#5
For sure its more than just done soup.  Beautiful!  I see from your photos that you cut a rabbit in the top piece for the plexiglass to fit into, but no rabbit in the bottom (baffle) to hold the plexiglass.  If I am correct, then how does the bottom get sealed to the plexiglass?  I see your vertical braces/supports which keep the plexiglass inside and at the edge of the baffle, so I assume you ran a bead of clear silicone around the bottom.  Was there no rabbit at the bottom so that you could assure the wall was flush with the edge of the "c"?  Also, how did you bend the plexiglass?  I assume you installed the plexiglass in the top first using a blow torch.  Any help in these two areas would be very helpful.  Thanks.
#6
I guess you are saying that you used  plexiglass for the walls.  Was it hard to bend or did you heat it or what?  How did that part work for you?

Thanks.
#7
Good points and thanks for the advise.  I have not started anything, but still reading.  I am now back to page 12 on this site and have found all of this very interesting, so I continue to read.  I found this pic somewhere on the site, and it looked very simple to build.  I guess I am not yet sure how to build the Top Hat walls and I also wonder  about a 90 degree connection for a 4 inch inlet.  Those two pipes need a lot of area within the top hat.  I guess I can get a 90 degree 4 inch elbow at Rockler.  On the other hand it probably would not do anything much to air flow if I converted everything to standard PVC 20 pipes internal to the separator and everywhere else stay with 4 inch ducting.  You seem to have convinced me towards doing the top hat.
As for the WOK,  I was just going off of Phil's comments that you cannot stop all the fines.  Seems to me that a WIDE WOK might collect more and thus reduce them even more in the filter.  I assume that if the separator is working that for the most part only fines would get by the separator.
#8
I have a DC very similar to a Woodtec DC (see attached), however mine is 1.5 HP.  Both have 4 inch hoses.  I want to build either a top hat like all those posted or just take a metal garbage can and install the baffle under a lid like in Phil's drawing, but then instead of running the inlet through the top cover where the outlet would be  connected, run the inlet through the side of the can at the point where the wide  part of the baffle starts ( where most people have their elbow start).  Wish I had a drawing for what I just wrote, but if you look at Phil's drawing you can see where the elbow is in relation to the drop slot.

On another matter, has anyone installed the Thein seperator and also a Wok type plate above the dust collection bag on the dust collector?   Seems like this idea might contain very fine dust which makes it past the separator.

Thanks for any opinions.