J. Phil Thien's Projects

 Yep, they have it....thin wall.  At $9.71 a foot.

 yes, you can splice polycarbonate.  I did not do it at a vertical support.  I cut a piece about two inches wide and the same height as the parts to be joined.  The two parts to be joined should not butt together, leave a gap of 1/16 to 3/32.  get all three parts aligned.  Apply your solvent, with full coverage of the splice.  The splice is on the outside of the bend.  IIRC the stock was 1/8 inch.

To bend, I warmed it up with a heat gun, not hot, just warm, rolled it up to approx size of TH and left it....for days, got busy with other things.

Freckle Face sells acrylic and polycarbonate is many sizes.  Never bought from them, but seems reasonable.   

Seems 2D elbows are high priced, so my plan is to use two 1D elbows together.  Did buy twice as many.... one of these days.

Quote from: tvman44 on January 06, 2014, 11:33:39 AM
So if the outer diameter of the drop slot (where the wall is) is a little smaller than the inside diameter of the barrel that should not be a problem?  I want the diameter of the bottom of the top hat a little larger than the barrel so I can route a slot in it to sit on the barrel.  Another question, I read that the thinner the the baffle is the better the separator will work, but I want something thicker to route a slot for sitting on the barrel so thinking about making a bottom of 3/4" with a larger drop slot and setting a piece of 1/8" hard board over that with the proper size drop slot.  How do most of you'll handle the bottom of the Top Hat?  8)

What I did, and that's where I ran into trouble, was cut a 1/4 inch x thickness of hardboard, counter bore just inside the barrel diameter.  Then cut out the center.  Made a hardboard disc to fit c'bore, then cut drop slot.  then glued it in place.  Now to the trouble, I wound up with a step between drop slot and outer wall of separator, so when vac is turned off, something is left in the top hat, does not empty it's self.  But I can not see any reduction of separation.  Kinda messy when emptying, trash falls out, but separation is great.     

Quote from: tvman44 on January 05, 2014, 07:37:58 AM
rickc,
one more question, did you cap off the original inlet on the shop VAC.  I have been thinking about stacking my shop VAC and separator together without being too unstable and like your idea. :)

Yes, you can see it in the photo on the right side top of vac.  That's a scrap piece of plastic glued, (silicone) to the intake of vac.
After a bit of use, I would have to say separation is better than 99%.  had about 2 inch in the bottom can, and nothing in the vac, save a plastic drill shaving, about 6 inch long.
Again, thanks for this idea Phil, and everybody else.
if anyone is in doubt of doing one, just do it.  I learned a long time ago, but sometimes I forget, ignorance and arrogance can take you a long way.   

Quote from: Jack on January 04, 2014, 07:51:04 AM
I guess you are saying that you used  plexiglass for the walls.  Was it hard to bend or did you heat it or what?  How did that part work for you?

Thanks.

Yes, acrylic from HD, (?) about 1/8 inch, maybe .093.  Yes, did use a bit of heat....shop temp was 55.  Not a lot of heat, I doubt the temp hit 100.  My acrylic was spliced, piece I had was 18 x 12, would not reach.  Cut a 2 inch wide X width, put splice on the outside, used a straight edge to keep it all aligned.  The two parts were spaced 1/16 inch apart, so the the act of bending, there wouldn't be any interference.  Then just glue, well not really glue, Weld-On solvent #4. 
All in all, worked good....but do have a little experience with the solvent.  Not to say a beginner couldn't do it.  Like most everything, it's not hard, just takes a time or two.....     

 I know this was just a quick build, out of stuff laying around, doesn't look like much, but works great.
After I was finished posting the other day, it hit me that the base on this vac, and maybe others, would make a good base for a top hat.  Save buying something.  There is a rib flush with the id, stands about 1/4 inch high, and 1/8 wide.  With a bit over 1/2 inch clearance  to the handle.
So save your base when the vac goes out.

Quote from: tvman44 on January 02, 2014, 01:52:56 PM
How does the shop vac connect to the top hat?

Weather strip on the top of top hat to seal, then two latches between vac and top hat, to secure.

 Trying pic again

 OK pic won't load.  too big.  So what I did....
Used 10 gal Brute bucket.
Separator sets on that, with all the standard stuff, exit center on the lid.
Cut a hole centered on the bottom of vac, output port of separator sticks just inside bottom of vac.
Sealed the vac hose intake with a piece of plexi.
Bottom of vac had ribs, so cut some plywood to fit inside the lip, cut out for caster moldings in base, cut an X across plywood so it would seal the bottom of vac.  Silicon'ed it in place, now a smooth sealed base.
Used weather striping on the top of separator to seal it to the vac base.
Added two latches between separator and vac.
It's a bit top heavy so added a ring just below the handles of the bottom can, on three legs, put it all on casters.
It's all stacked one on the other, Brute can....separator....vac
A pic would have been much better than this .....diatribe.

   

 I finally decided to improve my shop vac.  i have a Griz 2hp set-up, no mods yet.  But thought I'd do a sub scale model, (shop vac) just to see how it really does work.  It works great.  Guessing 99% went into the Brute 10 gal can.
I was trying to combine two ideas into one....but one thing wasn't right.  The drop slot is about a half inch away from the plexiglass.   So the separator doesn't empty it's self very good.  But separation is fantastic.
Thanks for the information, ideas and whatever else ya'll provided.
Now to get started on my Griz dust collector.   

 I do hope it works, the foundation is in place, (PT wood, filled w/ decomposed, compacted granite).  Just too much noise inside the shop.  Plus it takes up room.  The DC is a 2 hp Griz, with an after market 1 micron bag, about twice the volume.  The plan is to use two 20 X 24 return air filters.  I'm in TX, gets a bit warm here.   

 Thanks, thought it might be my computer.  How, I haven't a clue.  Everything works.

 Nothing since 4 & 10, that I can see