J. Phil Thien's Projects

Thank you very much nucww for taking the time to reply to my questions.
You have a lot of interesting thoughts.

As I live in the metric part of the world the drain pipes are actually 110mm, and have rubber sealing in the joints, so they have absolutely no leaks.
Unfortunately my shop configuration makes it "impossible" to use any larger pipes, as I have to do most of the lines across the joists, and therefor have to stay below.
Crossing close to a wall is an option, but most walls are occupied with cabinets and such.

I think I will try to see how it works.

I temporarily tested the new fan with the old separator and got a pretty decent airspeed at the intake point of the longest pipe run.
The longest one has a round to square adapter, as it is connected to my cnc, but managed to get 4500 fpm

I will do some testing with a larger 8" pipe between the fan and the top hat, but I am unsure if this will make any difference, as the bottleneck are the 110mm piping with its restricted air volume capacity.

I also added the 3 filter bags temp. and they did not affect the airflow.
They will have a dropbox for any fine dust passing through the separator to fall into when I shake the filter bags.

I attached a couple of construction images for fun.

Thanks again for taking the time to write down your thought, but as you say, maybe the main issue here is the 110mm pipes, and I have reached the limit of what they are capable of moving

Hi,
I have had great success with several baffle builds for 5 gallon buckets and shop vacs. I also built a top hat for a 40 gallon trash can to use with my 3/4hp dust collector.
I have now outgrown the small DC, and  at a demolition of a production line at work I found a dust collector that I ripped the fan out of to use for my new build.
Its a fairly large fan with a 14" steel diameter fanblade, and 6" tall, so it move a huge amount of air with the 3 hp motor.
I put a VFD on it so that I have full control on speed, ramping and current.
BUT, my major issue in my setup is that my basement shop has very low ceilings and the largest piping I can install are 4"
I would have preferred 6", but sadly there is not enough headroom. The longest stretch of pipe is aprox 21 feet, containing four 90 degree turns.
I run pvc pipes, and unfortunately no long sweep bends.
With the small dc and the thien top hat I managed to get 2300FPM at center of pipe inlet.

The new large fan has a 10" inlet, and I have built 3 filterbags on the exhaust with a diameter of 8" and 68" tall.
I will get some photos of my setup tomorrow.

I am going to build a new top hat, and was thinking about making it 23" in diamter and 11" tall.
I have two 4" pipes coming in from different parts of the shop, And was wondering if I should make an inlet with the 2 pipes stacked,
Normally Only 1 pipe will be used at a time, but I might reconfigure the lines, so that I get for example one 4" line for the bottom of the table saw, and one 4" for the overhead arm dust collector.

I am planning on ending these pipes in a smooth transition to a square inlet.

My major question is What size pipe would be best for the output?

Would it be wisely to make a 10" output, as long as I only have a 4 inch line on the input? ( maybe two in the future, or more),
So if I add more pipes later on, I will not have to rebuild., But are there any negative sides of using 10" in my setup?

How will this affect the FPM in my lines?

Any info is greatly appreciated

Best regards
Roy
Norway

I might just start over and build me another one, what size do you suggest for diameter, inlet and otlet port, and also height?


best reg
cory

Thanx for the answer Alan

I built the top hat to fit the size of the barrel, but I see as you state that 90 mm on the outside of the outlet might be to little.
Might have to build another one, with a square collecting container under the hat.
The other problem I have is the ceiling height in my basement. This is only about 200cm, ad below this is the piping for my heating radiators around the house.
Beeing only 178cm i make it, but as you might tell I have no room for 6" piping. i was considering 2 4" branches in paralell, but I am not sure. My TS could hava a 4 inch on top and bottom, and the same goes for my Router table and SCMS.

My jointer and sander does not need this much airflow.

But a 4" line would create a lot of static pressure loss, but running 2 lines might be better than one?

My intake is 180mm x 180 mm

I did not build this top hat from any drawings, so it might not be correctly consructed.
The dropslot is 28 mm wide and 240 degr, but I see on other builds  on this page, that mine might start a little close to the intake.
I do not know if this has any effect on the drop effect?

Any ideas?

Here are some photos from the build, if this is of any interest.

The 4"port is just temp for testing an my old single stage dc

Please lead me in the right direction:)

Best reg
C

Hi I built this separator for a trash can, and iI have a huge 3 hp blower that I am going to connect to it.
The size if the separator is 430mm inside diameter, and my question is: how large is it possible to have the center port (outlet) without distorting the cyclonic effect.

You see my blower has an 250mm inlet port.

Do I have to build a bigger seperator and collector can?

Hope someone can help

best reg
Cory

he he, yup, it was supposed to be plywood. (dont know why I put an F there, it is not remotely near the P on the keyboard...mabye because plywood starts with an F in my language?)
I have unlimited accsess to free 9mm baltic birch plywood, so i think i will make one from that, and put castors on it to wheel it out.

I might be able to get a plastic chemical 50 gallon barrel, but the config might be to tall for my 6,2' basement shop.
dont know yest what i will settle for.

C

Thanx guys, then Ill make it square.
Hard to find suitable barrels/trash cans in Norway, so Ill make one out of flywood and seal it.

I`ll post some pictures when Im done

C

If I choose to go with this type of design: http://www.jpthien.com/smf/index.php?topic=431.0
Does it matter if the container is square or round underneath the baffle lid?

Will the airflow inside the lid/baffle be interupted in any way as the flow of dust circulating downwoards, will have no "wall" to cling to aftre passing the slot in the baffle?

best reg
C