J. Phil Thien's Projects

John,

I had some 1/2" acrylic from an old display case that was used for the gate body. The holes were bored 1/16 over for the SR 35 PVC which is held in with clear silicon. 1/4-20 holes were drilled and taped to hold the halves together. The gate is 1/8 lexan. I bolted the lexan between the 2 halves and bored the holes through all 3 pcs at once to maintain perfect alignment.

Don Z.

The 4" flex I used fits right inside 4" DWV or SR35 fittings. The I.D. on Schedule 40 is too small.  Sprayed a little WD40 to help twist it in and it stays stuck.
I've had better luck with Menards as they seem to have a bigger selection.

Don Z.

I didn't have the lid with mine so that's the main reason I cut mine down not to mention I originally planned on using the stock Delta cart. I have an 1-1/2" difference in diameter from the top to where the baffle sits and an 1-1/8" wide drop zone and that gives me the required space for the baffle to fit the smaller diameter at the top. I also put a 1/2" radius on the lower lid section so it is a snug fit when the lid is in place. I think you should be OK but I would start with a smaller drop zone at first as you can always open it up if necessary.

Don Z.

I thought of plasma cutting my DC and tig welding a 6" flange to make the fit up better but I still have 1-1/2 yrs on the warranty. Besides it works great now plus I just received my Wynn filter yesterday and have notice a significant difference.

Steps For coping the pipe.
#1 If you don't have a circle cutting jig for your BS make one

#2 Cut a circle the same diameter as the drum at the CL of the inlet. It can bet trimmed down later to fit snug against the I.D  at the top of the drum. I made a 2 pc lid

#3 Mount a 1"x 6" perpendicular to  the circle and parallel to the CL.

#4 Clamp the pipe  to  the vertical board and allow enough material to overhang the circle.

#5 Put assembly on your BS circle cutter and it will give you a perfect cope.

#6 Locate coped pipe on your drum and transfer your cut line slightly smaller than the outline

#7 trim to fit and epoxy.

As for the 5" PVC, they don't make it except for some big $$$$ clear stuff. before I made this I used various types of PVC fittings and turned them on the lathe to make what I needed. My DC has a 5" also, That's why I went with the 6". I did have to use HVAC duct to go from the separator to the DC though. For the inlet on the drum it is to early to tell as the system has only been up and running for about a  week. I did use  West systems epoxy instead of polyester resin with 2 layers of glass and it seems to have a good bond. I cost more but I had never had a failure.  I also prepared the surfaces with 60 grit and  had a hairline fit up with no gaps.

Don Z.

Juicegoose

I just posted my setup with the blue can and I cut off 3" of the top. Mine has a taper and I only lost about 1: in the top diameter.

Don Z.

I would first like to thank Phil for sharing his separator design with all of us fellow woodworkers. I have now made 3 of them and would not use a single stage DC or shop vac without one and will probably not waste my money on a cyclone. I have just completed my newest seperator and ductwork for my 50-760 and believe busted the myth that it will not support 6? ducting or be useful as a stationary machine. I know it was designed to be a portable but with 35 yrs in the design and fabrication field I can not depend completely on spreadsheets or hearsay. Actually building and testing is the way I need to do it. My setup is the 50-760 with 5? to 6? going from the top of the separator to DC. A 6? side inlet with 24? of 6? main trunk going into 4? drops and dual 4? drops on 3 machines. My 1st try was with the 30 gal silver trash can and 4? in and out of the lid. The separator worked fine but was not pleased with the suction. My current setup is totally amazing. It has seems to have twice the suction and that is still with a stock bag.  

Don Z.

As soon as I figure out how to attach a picture I will post it. I cut the PVC on the band saw with a circle jig so the inlet pipe was a perfect fit.the fiberglass holds it very rigid. the top is a press fit with a shoulder. I used 2 pcs so it is the same as a rabbit.

Don Z.

Yes but if it is poly most glue will not work. I have a 6" PVC side inlet and had to use epoxy and fiberglass to attach it.

Don Z.

This is my first post here but I have read quite a bit of valuable info he over the last couple of months. I have already built The Thien separator with silver can under my Delta 50-760. Thanks Phil for sharing it with your fellow woodworkers. I am currently running a 4" S&D elbow for the inlet and in process of making my own blast gates for a 6" main line and dual 4" sections to my 5 machines. I have a 15' max run and will only have one gate open at a time. Should I make a new lid with a 6" elbow intake or keep my current 4" and use an adapter.

Thanks in advance for any assistance,
Don