J. Phil Thien's Projects

is this how collected saw dust should behave when there is a properly fabricated and installed thien baffle in a single stage dust collector's drum ring?:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9MSOCePr35s

i'm asking because while my frying pan drum ring baffle does reduce the rotation of saw dust in the collection bag, it doesn't just lazily fall into the bag like it does in this video.  i'm just looking for a standard to work towards in optimizing the performance of the system i've got. here's how my frying pan baffle in drum ring currently performs:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6KpAhEsrV0

in another thred, i kind of asked the same question i did here.  furthering that question, what is the estimted marginal improvement in the operation of the flat internal baffle relative to a cone or bowl shaped "baffle".  is the flat baffle 5%, 10%, 6%, 8%, 25% etc, better than a "cone like" baffle?

am i correct that the downside to this (an inverted frying pan) modification to a 50-850 collector ring:



is that it keeps more fines in suspension and headed towrds the filter than does phil's flat 120/240 degree baffle? so even if thee is no discernable dust on the top of the dust collector ring, and the pleated filter looks much cleaner than it did without any sort of cone/baffle at all (thien or frying pan or wok lid or salad bowl), that more fines wind up in the filter than do with a flat thien baffle?

here is a video of the operation of my 50-850 after my "baffle/cone" modification:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6KpAhEsrV0&feature=plcp

so although the downward, cyclonic motion of the dust is a positive developement, there's a chance that a flat, well executed  thien baffle would have the dust dropping straight down into the collection bag is if it were being dropped into the bag by hand, slowly and without any circular motion?  comments appreciated.

thanks.  as i putz around, at least i'll know if i'm on the right track based on what happens to the sawdust in the collection bag.

in the drum ring of those 1100cfm jet units and delta 50-850 type units is to reduce the cyclonic swirling that occurs in the collection bag, right?  and that with a properly installed baffle or (dare i say it) jet vortex type cone/tray, one wold see the collected dust drop into the collection bag of a DC rather than continue to swirl around as it does in it's OEM state.  have i got this right?

to a delta 50-850?

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/tools/shop-made-vortex-dust-collector-woks-on

based on the article, it seems like a simple addition with a good return in terms of efficiency.

i've been planning a 4" version of the separator, but always bumped into a problem with identifying the fittings that connect the separator to the vacuum.  i came across these in the latest rockler catalog at $15.99:

http://www.rockler.com/gallery.cfm?Offerings_ID=25225&r=2&TabSelect=Details

seems they'd make the connection easier, and it should be possoble to find some rigid pipe/tubing that will provide for a straight downtube in the center of the separtor lid.  any constructive comments on them?

skillington.....what type of fitting(s) did you use to go through the separator lid?

Quote from: dbhost on June 22, 2010, 03:27:43 PM
I see 2 fairly minor issues in an otherwise excellent build.

#1. You should rotate the baffle clockwise, so that the part where the drop slot ends is just behind the output of the elbow.

#2. And the same mistake I made on my HF DC build as well at first... The baffle should be about 1" below the elbow to allow stringy stuff like planer shavings to pass under it, instead of building up behind it and jamming the whole thing up... Ever since I dropped mine down, I haven't been able to get it to jam. And I plane a LOT of cedar...

looking at the second pic above, should the elbow, where is was sliced to get closer to the canister's side wall, be moved counter-clockwise so that there is more of the 120 degree full diameter, not reduced by 1 1/8" in front of the sliced portion of the elbow that is between the baffle and the wooden top?

mike...like you, i have an ap400.  i've wanted to do the same thing you are attempting, but never could get started.  good luck with applying the baffle.  once accomplished, pics would be really appreciated.  and good luck with the process.

millman..very nice set up.  but how did you cut the pipe that enters the side of the fiber drum so precisely.  and how did you make the corresponding cut to the plastic pipe so precisely?  whenever i've seen the type of set up you've achieved, theres's usually prodigioius amounts of duck or metal tape involved.  i little info on your technique would be appreciated.  thanks.

the 1 1/2" plumbing fittings at my HD here in teh NYC tristate area don't look like those fittings.  the ones they have here have "shoulders" on each end unless it si a "street" fitting.  do those fittings have any sort of a special designation or sku that identifies them?

what did you do to ensure that teh motor, once mounted to the mall, would line up with the inlet into the DC (not the metal separator)?

ThomasL1959...i'm assuming these are plumbing fittings?  did you get them at home depot or lowes?  what did you use in the bucket?  street fittings, regular fittings?  the more details, the better.   that apllication is very impressive inthat it saves using a hose to connect the vcuum to the separator.  thanks.

ThomasL1959 ...ditto to the above question about the fittings.  any chance you could post a list of what was used to make all the connections?  it would be gratly appreciated.