J. Phil Thien's Projects

A 6" inlet with a 6" outlet centered means you have a min of 9" radius which puts the inlet right beside the the outlet. Solution are to make the baffle wider (if you can accomodate it) or to put the inlet on the side of the baffle instead of the top

There are a few people who have built baffles using 6" inlets/outlets (including Greg) so take a look at the previous posts on this forum.

Greg,

I was asking about the reduction in sizing on the intake only so ascertain if I should "design" it the same way for mine.

hey, no problems at all and I appreciate you posting your build and your results here. Between your and the others who have done a baffle build, it gives me much encouragement that things will work out well.

I don't have any dust collection at the moment and would love to have a cyclone but with the CDN $ at US$.83 a Grizzly 2HP would cost over CDN $1000 (not including a days round trip + gas to go get it) ... vs what will cost me less than CDN$400 (used 2HP dust collector $200; $20 in sheet metal, currently have a welder, a free collection drum and around CDN$200 for a canister filter)

I have no doubt it won't perform quite a well as a cyclone ... but it should do quite a veru good job especially given I have nothing now and the cost can't be beat.

Thanks for the updated picture. Much appreciated.

I have skim read most of Pentz's site and it doesn't really scare me. There are a lot of health hazards in everything we do so .... its just something that need to be accommodated.

I did see on his site where recommends to make the inlet rectangular and extend it into the cyclone (aka neutral vane) but I haven't found the part that calls for a reduction in cross sectional area of this intake.

Thanks for the picture. It should be very helpful as I hope to build a 6" all metal baffle (I have a welder) in the new year.

A few questions, if I may

• Why did you use PVC for the outlet?
• Assuming that your collecting drum is 24" wide, why did you make the baffle 18" wide as opposed to wider?
• What is the distance from the baffle to the top of the unit?
• The leading side of your inlet is 6" round (28.27 sq inches of surface area) while the trailing side of your inlet is 7x3.5" rectangle (24.5" sq in of surface area). Why the reduction?

Thanks again.

Quote from: Greg McCallister on December 04, 2008, 04:10:49 AM
dbhost,
The inlet is used from Bill Pentz site excel spread sheet ....

While I have skimmed most of his site .... Are you saying that you calculated both the size and how far into your baffle the inlet extends from Pentz's spreadsheet?

Quote from: digger on December 02, 2008, 02:08:29 PM
I just purchased the Delta 50-760 and will also be trying to make a separator.
If I may ask, what's your source for the fiber drums. ?
What type of 4" hose are you getting ?

I'm very new at this, so there will be probably be a lot more questions.

Thanks

Our local craigslist has lots of fiberglass, metal and fiber drums from free to $30.

Quote from: dbhost
I'm not sure mounting the vac sideways would work all that well. Wouldn't the check ball close it off?

The powerhead on my Ridgid shopvac can be detached as a blower so it doesn't have a check valve .... but even if it did ... given that there isn't any back pressure against the valve, the blower should / might be able to push the ball out of the way?

In the end, just an idea and something for the OP and others to test first.

True but you would eliminate two sharp 90s and you should see a good increase in CFM/suction.

Why not rotate the shop vac 90 degrees so that the outlet from the baffle separator goes straight into the inlet for the shop vac ... would just need to build a cradle to hold the shopvac on its side.

That is exactly the way that I've been thinking about doing it as I mentioned above.

PLUS .... mount the blower above the ring (like Robert did in this post: http://www.jpthien.com/smf/index.php?topic=27.0)

The blower will be fixed into position (cause its heavy) and I'll use flexible hose to connect it to fan to the ring/baffle outlet. This will allow me enough "flex" to disconnect the ring from the barrel and pull the ring up.

The output from the blower will go into into a Wynn style canister filter but one with an internal paddle that allows the filter to be "cleaned"

My idea is to laminate up to a 1" wide strip on the outside of the ring and the barrel so that I can use insulation (and a couple of quick release clamp things) to "seal" the connection between the barrel and the baffle (ring).

Excellent, thanks ... I am going to try the 6" intake into the side in the next little while.

Should the inlet tube extend into the baffle area or should it be flush with the side of the unit (as Boisejim did from this thread: http://www.jpthien.com/smf/index.php?topic=65.0) ?

For your #1, my idea is to build a top that contains the intake, outlet and baffle ... and that top will sit onto of my collection drum so that it only need to be lifted <1" for the collection drum to be removed ... I need to learn sketchup

For your #2, in the 3rd photo on the link above above, you can see that the intake does NOT extend into the baffle area (it is flush with the sides of the drum). Whether this improves or doesn't the separation rate, I have no idea.

I picked up a inexpensive 2HP DC off craiglist that supports 6" ducts so I, too, am wondering if a 6" inlet/outlet would be reasonable. I've snared a 22" wide fiber drum so, while I have a bit more room, it isn't much

I am probably going to do it the way boisejim did it in this thread: http://www.jpthien.com/smf/index.php?topic=65.0. It puts the 6" inlet on the side (pushing the inlet further away from the outlet AND it eliminates one pretty strict elbow which should improve CFM through the unit