J. Phil Thien's Projects

I've been using the system since I did the conversion.  However, because of other obligations, I have only filled the lower "clear" bag twice.  The system still works very effectively.  I know that the "cyclone" action is working because of the cyclone action in the saw dust in the "clear" lower bag. I have not removed the Wynn Filter, but my dust collector closet is nearly dust free whereas before the conversion (using the Grizzly cloth bags), the dust collector closet got very dusty.

dbhost,

Nice work.  Looks like a fine separator.  Have you performed the separator test yet?

As for the elbow, I don't think there's anything wrong with yours.  You are just circulating in the opposite direction.  I think I remember Phil mentioning SOMEWHERE??? that the direction doesn't matter.

Thanks Phil and dbhost.  You're right dbhost regarding the ClearVue...but of course I have to see how the system actually performs.  My ducts are buried under a concrete slab.  So changing the ducts would be difficult.  I have a 5" main line with 4" drops to the machines.  I did use metal ducts.  If you've read Bill Pentz's stuff, he empasizes the use of 6" duct or higher to capture all the "fine" dust, the most dangerous.  I'm not sure if the modified Grizzly will be effective enough.  I'm also not sure a more powerful cyclone would perform any better without increasing size of the ducts.

I really liked what Phil did when he measured the dust in his shop with a particle counter.  He observed that even in a basement shop, the particles settle after a few hours.  I have a first floor shop with windows on all 4 sides.  So I can air-out the shop as needed.  Phil, I was wondering where you got the particle counter...purchase, rent, borrow, or what?

BTW, I was in a Harbor Freight store this morning, and I looked at the 2 HP dust collector.  I noticed that the collar on the Harbor Freight DC was not as heavy gauged metal as the Grizzly G1029 that I have.  I was wondering why the Grizzly machine cost more that the HF. 

dbhost,

Good point.  The 35A looks like a better fit than the 9L300BL that I used.  I chose the 9L300BL because it is specified for the ClearVue cyclone.  I even had to make an end cap for the 9L300BL because it is open at both ends as opposed to the 9E300BL and the 35A which both have one open end and one closed end.  Before ordering, I talked with the folks at Wynn and they confirmed that the closed end of the 9E300BL could not be removed to make it a 9L300BL.

Thanks to Phil and others for the great ideas on this Forum.

I have a 2 HP Grizzly 1029 Dust Collector.  It is nearly identical to the 2 HP Harbor Freight DC, the Jet DC and several others.

I have recently become concerned about the efficiency of my dust collector.  I've read through Bill Pentz's website, here http://billpentz.com/woodworking/Cyclone/Index.cfm, found out about modifying my DC to accept a Wynn Filter, here http://www.wynnenv.com/9e300bl_conversion.htm, considered buying a ClearVue Cyclone, building my own cyclone per Bill Pentz's plans or
buying an Oneida Cyclone.  All of these options are $$$$$.

I purchased a Wynn Filter since it would significantly reduce the fine wood dust, could be made to work with my current DC and could eventually be used with the ClearVue Cyclone if I decide to buy one of those.

While considering the cyclone options, I learned about this Forum.  I watched Phil's video  and read through the posts.  I was particularly impressed with those who have adapted the Wynn Filter and a Thien Baffle to the HF DC, just what I wanted to do!

Attached are several pictures which represent a log of my modification of the Grizzly 1029.  I hope this may be helpful to anyone considering similar modifications.

The first couple of pictures are of the Dust Collector collar.  The filter will be attached to the top and the baffle will be attached to the bottom of the collar.

Next we make the filter adapter out of 3/4" plywood.  I used a modified version of Phil's router circle-cutting jig to cut the filter adapter and later the baffle.  I didn't have a router bit with a bearing that was tall enough to cut the plywood, so I attached a piece of plywood scrap to my router table and used a nail to hold the center of the circle I was cutting.  Phil's idea of fixing the router and passing the piece to be cut past the bit worked WONDERFULLY.

Once I cut the donut hole in the filter adapter, I mounted the filter to the collar.

Then on to the baffle.  I glued-up two sheets of 3/16" tempered hardboard.  Phil suggests using tempered hardboard, but I was concerned that a single sheet would be too flimsy since the baffle has to be nearly 19" in diameter and, in my case, supported by 3 all-thread screws.  I cut a full circle the size of the bottom of the DC collar, then using the circle-cutting jig, I removed 1.25 inches for 240 degrees of the circle.  I mounted the baffle on the collar using three all-thread screws, an L-bracket to hold the 120 degree part to the collar, a little clear caulk and we're ready to reassemble the dust collector.

The final picture is the dust collector running.  One of the most exciting parts of the process was seeing the saw dust swirling like a CYCLONE at the bottom of the plastic bag while the dust collector was running.  I even made a video clip of the cyclone action at the bottom of the plastic bag, but the video quality of my digital camera was too poor to be able to see it on the video clip.

Since I haven't used the modified dust collector very much, I don't have a lot of results to report yet.  I did remove the filter after having run the dust collector a bit and the filter had NO DUST, GREAT!

I'll be happy to answer any questions, especially for anyone planning similar modifications.