J. Phil Thien's Projects

Quote from: SteveSawyer on August 23, 2010, 01:19:40 PM
Sorry - one other question I forgot to ask.

Did you use the original 5" inlet on the blower, or did you remove the inlet flange and make a new flange with a 6" inlet? Since your picture show it already assembled, I'm trying to figure out how to configure the top. I have everything cut out and am to the point of starting to assemble, but the top is still solid - haven't cut a whole for the blower inlet yet.

Thanks!

I removed the 5" flange, used it as a template to make a 6" one out of 3/4 MDF,  I made the new "flange" square mostly so that I could screw it to the top of the separator.  the 6" holes in both tops are lined with a short piece of PVC which was screwed and glued into the new flange.  that piece of PVC protrudes into the top of the separator by about 1/2".

Hope it helps,  I really wish I had taken more pictures of the assembly but totally got caught up in assembly and then it was all installed!

I built mine based on this same design and until I got my 6" piping hooked up I used a 6->4" PVC adapter directly on the unit.   That way I didnt have to fix the opening in the unit once my pipe was ready.

It worked really nice as a stop gap.

Quote from: SteveSawyer on July 22, 2010, 11:19:46 AM
So I  have to ask - since you've been using this for a couple of weeks, what can you tell us about a) the effectiveness of the separation, and b) the effectiveness of the dust collection?

I'd like to run my 6" inlet can-topper using my HF motor and blower, but I'm concerned that it really doesn't have enough air-moving capacity to maintain the air velocity in 6" ducting.

Thanks.

I never did get around to getting the dimensions done but did want to respond to this question.

I have noticed very good separation from the unit after using.  I have almost no dust in the lower bag and I have emptied the can 2-3 times about half full.
There is WAY more suction than there was before.  I am able to use the farthest away sweep that I have installed and it picks up vertically ~7 feet and runs about 10 feet back to the unit. 

The only issue I have had since doing the mod is that my unit began throwing my20 amp breaker when I first turn it on after letting it sit for a few days.  Not sure if this is the change in orientation, 6" port, more use, weather.... but it is annoying.

The biggest change for me is that I can easily have my upper and lower branches both 4" open and still work fine.  The 6" main trunk is key.

Quote from: Rob Faucett on July 05, 2010, 08:35:18 PM
Looks good. Could you post pics of the baffle & inlet?

Unfortunately I didn't take many pictures of the inside of the part,  The inlet to the separator is using 2 3/4" MDF with a 6 1/4 hole in it to accept the 6" pvc.  The PVC goes into the unit about 2 inches.


Here is the view from the bottom.

Just Finished up my Harbor Freight DC conversion!.  I Borrowed ideas from many,  Thanks to Phil, VAWoodworker and all those who helped the design evolve to what is now mounted on my garage wall!

I used 3/4 MDF for the top and bottom of the separator unit and used 1/2" to build the case.  Inside there is some dry erase hardboard which was bent to fit the inner circle.  I used another piece of 3/4" MDF and replaced the inlet of the DC to a new 6" port.  The new port is screwed onto the housing and screwed to the unit below.  The whole unit is supported by a 3/4" Ply brace which was lag bolted to the studs.  

For the cart I used 3/4 Ply and bolted the original metal cart under for stability.  If I separate the Ring and Blower connections by loosening the small piece of flex the whole cart, trashcan, filter, and bag roll away for cleaning leaving the blower and separator mounted to the wall.  The can is supported by some scrap for now but was thinking about some sort of lever action to lift it into place.


The Ducting is 6" S&D.  I got a 14' length and a 6" Wye with 4" reducer and 4" wye part for 25$.  After the Wye 4" continues on to the other tools.  I'm currently have one 4" pipe coming off the Wye to the below blade of the TS and am planning a 3" port from above once I get around to building the above blade guard.  This should allow me to have both "open" at the same time.

Sorry for the grainy photos,  Phone camera isn't so great.

Interesting.

I guess I just figured that if there wasn't a topper connected that there is some level of air rotation in the tube connected to the impeller intake.  If that rotation is continued in the separator I figured it would be more efficient.

Probably wouldn't matter even if there was because I would have to have a full 90 bend to accomplish my original plan.  If it doesn't matter what "side" the intake port of the separator comes in on its way easier for me to duct.

Thanks Phil for ALL of your help! 

Quote from: gregascull on June 07, 2010, 06:13:26 PM

In the pictured design it seems like the debris comes into the topper and makes a hard left.  OR  the airflow is going in the other direction in the topper?  if so then the debris enters the topper and can get sucked directly to the wall of the topper.

Ok,  So I thought about it and i guess my question can be a lot simpler to ask.   

Is the direction of the cyclone in the topper established by the intake port,  or the impeller on the motor? 

I was assuming that the direction that the cyclone is swirling is established by the fan/impeller?

This is a great build good work.!

I have been lurking here for a while and am in the process of building a very similar design/clone to add to my HF DC unit.  I was wondering about the airflow direction and the intake pipe placement.  Seems to me from the setup in the picture that when the motor/fan unit is on top the air flow is clockwise if looking down at it.    The air flow / cyclone in the topper I am assuming is also in the same direction as the blower unit.  In the picture the debris are coming in at an angle to the airflow around the topper.  In my plans I had the pipe coming in on the other direction on the corner where the intake is located to keep what I assume is the intake getting pulled from the 6" pipe. 

In the pictured design it seems like the debris comes into the topper and makes a hard left.  OR  the airflow is going in the other direction in the topper?  if so then the debris enters the topper and can get sucked directly to the wall of the topper.


Help!!

If it doesn't matter then cool because that would really help my piping location in the shop !