News:

SMF - Just Installed!

Main Menu
Menu

Show posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Show posts Menu

Messages - OCJoeR

#1
Hi Retired,

If I neglected to say it before, great thread! And great photos.

I knew it had to have something to do with watching saw dust and chips, lol. I guess I'll go with it. I'm wondering if heating it as the holes are drilled and while inserting the screws through it will help with the cracking issue. I'll cut a strip and give it a try and report back.

Joe
#2
I've been reading all the posts on here since I'm trying to find some answers to questions regarding building either a top hat or internal baffle. Of course I did this after starting an internal system. I think I'm going to forgo the space issue I have and go with the top hat build. I've noticed much discussion regarding the use of one form or another of plastic for the side of the unit. There appears to be issues with it cracking in some instances. Is there some reason galvanized steel can't be used? It obviously isn't going to crack, even with holes drilled in it.

thanks,
Joe
#4
Just finished the side inlet baffle in a 55 gal. drum. I picked up 2 of the drums a few weeks ago from a company just giving them away so I think I'll make a second one to switch out. I'm using 6" HVAC ductwork and the 2hp HF motor/impeller. I'll take some photos and post later.

thanks for all the help,
Joe
#5
I'm in the process of setting up my garage shop now that I'm all moved into the new house, more or less. I've looked at several videos and plans for the baffle. I've decided to go with the internal build rather than the "top hat" version. I've seen 2 types of inlets, one where a 90 degree elbow is mounted to the lid and one wheee the inlet pipe is joined directly to the side of the drum.  I'm leaning towards using the direct attachment style.  This would appear to be more efficient since everyone has said that cutting out 90s is the first thing to do to increase suction. Seems like having a 90 degree L right at the beginning of the system would immediately reduce the suction. My duct work will go straight out of the drum under the workbench to the tools.

Any idea about this?

Joe
#6
Evening all, I'm Joe, a new member of the forum. I've just moved from a 3 car oversized garage in which I installed 240/120 wiring, a modified Harbor Freight DC with a Thien baffle with some additional modifications and piping to all my tools, to a barely 2 car garage house where I'm still trying to figure out how to get my '46 Chevy 3/4 ton stakebed into the garage next to mama's suv. Anyway, I've come up with a folding workbench and rolling stands for most of the tools and am back looking to build a dust collection system. I came across a You Tube video showing the baffle inside a 55 gallon drum, which, given the lack of space in this garage looked like a space saving idea. As it happens there was an ad on good old Craig's List from a company giving away as many 55 gallon drums as you'd like. I picked up 2.

I've been reading lots of posts regarding the benefits/downsides of the internal style baffle as opposed to the "top hat" version. From what I'm seeing it's a 50/50 proposition. I only use one tool at a time so all the suction will be going only to that tool so I'm thinking I can do the internal method with the 2 hp DC.

I couldn't find anything regarding the direction of the input port and its position in relation to the beginning point of the hole in the baffle. The photos on Phil's siet seem to show the inlet about midway along the uncut portion of the circle. I was going to use 6" ducting cut right into the side of the 55 gal. drum. Would I place this port in the same location?

I'm not sure if I should be asking all this in the intro section. If not please advise.

thank you
Joe