J. Phil Thien's Projects

I've moved on to the metal can.  So far so good.  I have thought about a trap door style relief valve to protect my filter box.  When I did the math it's like 250 lbs on the outside of the top.

I'll post a few more pics

Good ideas.  The drum is suspended.  I've not been able to get much in it yet, so weight's not a problem but wedging it seems like it could help.

It's a 2 hp 230 volt rated at 11.5 inches of static, but as you can see I've modified the inlet a bit.

I was planing some maple today and with one 4 inch connected to the planer and another 4 inch 1/3 open I still crushed the Brute. 

This is downright annoying.  I guess because I've crushed it a few times it now has the propensity to do it with less vacuum.  My next idea is to look at a metal can before I considering internal braces throughout the can.

Quote from: retired2 on February 06, 2015, 10:05:26 PM

No, I didn't mean spiral wound pipe, it is way too expensive.   Fittings are about three times the cost segmented pipe.

The vast majority of separators described in this forum sit on plastic garbage cans, fiber board drums, or even steel garbage cans.  Which do you think will collapse first, a 5" or 6" 26 gage steel pipe, or a 20" plastic drum?  Did you ever feel how heavy and stiff 26 gage pipe is?  You'd need to drive a car over it to flatten it!

Yes I've used plenty of snap lock duct in (26?) ga, but I'd be nervous without testing a long run.  I'm thinking after I crush the can would I crush the duct?  I'm more conservative with the items I can't see, like above the ceiling.  I'd still use the segmented fittings from HD, Lowes, Menards.  The real question for me would be how much straight spiral costs.  If its the same as PVC then I'm going with spiral.

It's a 32 gallon.  I added a of support pieces inside at the mid-top lip of the can and still crushed it.

I'll offer a few comments.  I'd be concerned about crushing the snap lock duct.  Spiral is available at most HVAC shops, maybe that's what Retired2 meant.

I agree not much difference in the pipe diameter but the HVAC metal elbows can be made into log sweep elbows (with two of the sectional fittings) that have much lower losses than the PVC elbows.

In any event PVC through drywall in a garage would typically mean you need a fire stop.  No fire stop is needed with metal pipe.  PVC should also get an external ground wire to drain the static.

For noise I'd use a few large 2 x 4 cardboard panels to block the areas around the DC to figure out where the noise is coming from.  This can be faster than putting the DC in a room.  After you figure out the sound you can make panels from hardboard and fiberglass insulation.   I had a project where we made hanging and movable fiberglass panels covered with fabric to block the fan noise.

As long as you're upgrading you might consider adding a straightener on the inlet of the fan and cartridge final filters.

John H

Thanks for the tips.  I'll be opening it up this weekend to install a pressure gauge across the filter.  I'll see what's getting by. The can seems to be getting a lot of fines, most of which are stuck to the sides with static electricity. 

The only problem I've had is crushing the can.  I need more that a 4 inch hose open or the can is crushed. 

I'm also looking at making a fill indicator, that's down the road.

Finishing up this build with a bunch of pics.  I need to add a discharge evase, but right now I'm pulling 1150 CFM at the inlet with a neutral vane addition.

The Jet ring gets a Thien baffle added to it.  I tried to show that in the first drawing.  I'll add some more pics.

More mock-up pics.  You can start to get a feel for the setup.  I want to paint this so I've pulled the Jet stickers.  I need see if they sell replacements.

With the holidays not much progress. 

As mentioned earlier it seems the lip for the Jet bag retaining channel can cause some grief, so I made a transition piece to bridge the channel.  This was made from galvanized flashing.  I had to template it to get the curve right. I pieced it with epoxy glue.  The final glue up was done after marking the joint in place. 

The transition piece snaps in place just like the bag retaining hoop.

Very nice.  Your picture looks great.  My Thien separator will reuse the Jet separator and move the fan after the filter.

Like you I will attempt to make this portable as my shop is tiny.

I need to up load a few more drawings and pics, but like everyone else it's a bit busy around the holidays so not a lot is getting done on the DC

JohnH

My current thought is to mount the baffle at the top of the C channel.  The 45 degree lip would then be on the reduced velocity side.

The lip is also giving me grief transitioning to the trash can.  I can extend the lip's 45 degree angle and fit a 20 gallon Rubbermaid can or I can mount a larger can that would make a surface behind the lip due to the larger diameter.

I've got a few drawings I can post later

Hi Phil,

Yes I'm using the Jet ring as a top hat section.  I'll be pulling through the ring and into the outside of the round cartridge filter very similar to commercial DCs. I'm attaching a few mock-up pics

Hi all I'm working on modifying my Jet DC1200 with the 230v 2 Hp motor.  I've attached a drawing of the proposed flow diagram and have started cutting wood and accumulating parts.

I'd appreciate any feed back as I go.

Thanks

JohnH