I was rounding up hardware and a container for my dust collection system and just purchased a green Brute at HD when I headed to Lowes for the rest of my hardware list.
I walked by their trashcan section and spotted these for $10 each, I grabbed two and they seem very sturdy. Much more so than the similar $15 rubbermaid at HD which I had passed over for the brute.
At lunch I was planning out the cuts and it hit me that the inside structure of these containers might cause an issue with the flow of debris and air once completed.
I would appreciate someone with knowledge on these systems to review the attached image and let me know if the two ridges (1.5" x 3") will cause a problem. I know I can align one side of the Thien top but that will leave the opposite side in a spot where the debris is starting to fall away.
Not really ideal. Will work, but hard to say how much better it would work if the walls were smooth.
Ok thanks. I will return them and keep my Brute 32g or try to find an old empty carboard drum.
Not seeing the attachement in the original post.
Quote from: retired2 on October 09, 2012, 09:25:32 PM
Not seeing the attachement in the original post.
Thanks for letting me know, I hadn't realized that I have to also approve the pictures of a first-time poster. It should appear now.
Quote from: phil (admin) on October 10, 2012, 07:03:13 AM
Quote from: retired2 on October 09, 2012, 09:25:32 PM
Not seeing the attachement in the original post.
Thanks for letting me know, I hadn't realized that I have to also approve the pictures of a first-time poster. It should appear now.
I see it now Phil.
Further reading on the forum reveals that I should use a metal trash can to reduce static build up which could be a problem, beyond the shape issue, with plastic containers.
I noticed the Brute container also has similar inside shape, although the intrusion is only 1/2" compared to these cheap ones which intrude about 2" into the container.
I will just return them all and buy the metal trash can :-)
I've actually been using a 30-gallon translucent (sorta milky-white) plastic barrel. The plastic doesn't seem to have anywhere near the problems w/ static as other plastics I've tried.
I also have a 30-gallon steel drum, but prefer the plastic because of the weight.
Where did you find the plastic barrel you are currently using?
I ordered the current one from McMaster, which is not the cheapest way to do it.
I picked up a nice Made in the USA Galvenized Metal trash can today at Lowe's for under $28.
And as I was strolling around the tool area I noticed a Skill 6" DADO set for $14 (reg $39).
Woodcraft is having an open house this weekend so I hope to pick up the remaining 2.5" ports and hose I need.
I used one of those metal trash cans and had some problems. Phil suggested I check for leaks. I found the side seam as well as the bottom seam leaked. I used some silicone to seal all the seams and that helped a lot.
Just thought I would give you a heads up and maybe help you miss some of the problems I went through.
Raymond
Thanks for that tip!
When I returned my green Brute to HD I planned to pick up a can their but ALL 3 of the metal cans where stuck together and you could see a very obvious dent on the side.
The one I got today from Lowe's was perfect as far as I could tell. I will hit it with silicone tomorrow.
Lowe's also had a very nice 2.5" quick connect handle for under $10. Previously I had only seen these for the 4" at Rockler or similar stores. I tried it and it works great. No more struggling to connect to my sander or bandsaw.
Just be aware, that a shop vac has enough static pressure to collapse an unreinforced 30-gallon metal garbage can. You are welcome to ask me how I know this. :D
How do YOU know this? I'm hoping for pictures!
Someone suggested I add plywood rings. Which shouldn't be too hard to make now that I have my circle cutter jig ready.
Somewhere on this forum, in a post under my name, are pics of the "repaired" metal can. I failed to take pics of it immediately after the collapse, but if you find the repaired pic, you can see the "wrinkles" left over after I pushed the can back into shape.
My solution was to add plywood rings at the 1/3 points, vertically, outside the can (actually, two half rings at each location). I drilled through the can and using some #8x1/2" pan head screws, attached the can to the rings. I didn't bother sealing the holes--there is plenty of suction and the top-hat separator still removes 90%+ of everything I send through it.
If I needed to seal a galvanized garbage can, I would use aluminum duct tape. The other opyion is red duct sealer, it's stickey and messy but it dosen't come off after a few months. Either can be obtained at a good Hardware store (not a box). Also places that deal with HVAC contractors.
what is the issue with static from the trash can? i have a plastic trash can and havent notice any real issues with is. some dust sticks to the sides a little bit but not enough to get in the way, i hope. im sure now someone is going to tell me otherwise.
Quote from: DarthVader on November 09, 2012, 06:49:55 PM
what is the issue with static from the trash can? i have a plastic trash can and havent notice any real issues with is. some dust sticks to the sides a little bit but not enough to get in the way, i hope. im sure now someone is going to tell me otherwise.
Some of the plastic cans I've used seem to be able to build one heckuva static charge, to the point where it can interfere with separation.
My current drum is a sort of translucent 30-gallon plastic drum and the static doesn't build anywhere near as much as some other plastics I've used.