Okay guys and gals. I am functional right now, so I am not in a huge hurry to make a decision, so I figure this would be a good time to take a look at various builds.
Has anyone done a side flip stand for a HF 2HP DC with a Thien Top Hat separator underneath it, preferrably on a 30 gallon galvanized trash can? I am looking for a 5" in, 5" out kind of rig. What are the critical dimensions to deal with? Can a can liner be used with this setup to make cleanup easier?
Show some pics, I'd like to get ideas how you pulled it off... Thanks.
This is a 2 HP Grizzly flipped and using the Grizzly collector ring as the separator. The inlet to the separator is 5" and all duct out to the tools are 5" with any reduction done after the blast gate. The inlet to the blower is 6" and outlet to the filter is 5". More details are on my post located here http://www.jpthien.com/smf/index.php?topic=1054.0 (http://www.jpthien.com/smf/index.php?topic=1054.0).
TX_Lenador
How do you raise and lower the Brute?
It looks like the Brute is flush with the bottom of the Tophat, is this the case?
One concern I have for your setup is that if the Brute is full you will fill your super nice filter. Currently I don't have a filter on the output of my current build but I did over fill the small 20 gal Brute and quickly ended up with a couple of inches of saw dust in the bottom bag on the left.
jgt1942
The lift mechanism to raise the trash can is a set of ramps that are pulled under a set of rollers attached to the base that the trash can sits on. The ramps are moved using all thread rod with coupler nut attached to one end. I use a cordless drill with a socket adapter to drive the rod when I need to lower/raise the trash can. The left mechanism works well and is easy to use. It is capable of providing plenty of upward pressure to seal the can to the weather stripping on the under side of separator. The details of the lift are shown below. If you have any further questions on the lift let me know.
Yes, it is possible that if the trash can fills up that a large amount of saw dust would end up in the filter. I typically empty the can when it is about half full so have not had a problem. The lift mechanism makes it easy to lower the can to check the level.
TX_Lenador - Great solution for the lift. I'm going to use your idea on some other tools. As you can see in my image in the previous post currently I do not have a lift. Because my platform is metal I'm going to use a Lazy-Susan and the plate will be mounted on a threaded rod that was then end of a weight-lifting bench press rod. This is a very coarse threaded rod thus it will move up and down rather quickly.
Quote from: TX_Lenador on March 05, 2014, 10:08:54 PM
This is a 2 HP Grizzly flipped and using the Grizzly collector ring as the separator. The inlet to the separator is 5" and all duct out to the tools are 5" with any reduction done after the blast gate. The inlet to the blower is 6" and outlet to the filter is 5". More details are on my post located here http://www.jpthien.com/smf/index.php?topic=1054.0 (http://www.jpthien.com/smf/index.php?topic=1054.0).
Now that's an approach I had never considered!
Very cool build.
I know some motors are not suited for vertical use. Has anyone checked to see if their horizontal motor will work/last/perform correctly when mounted vertically ?
If the motor has ball bearings, the bearings may be "deep grooved" and may support the weight of the rotor and impeller weight . If the motor has "sleeved" bearings, then there really isn't much axial load support thus making it a poor selection for vertical mounting. When running, the motor's electrical field wants to center the rotor within that field but it's not designed to support the rotor weight. The best way to know for sure if you can mount the motor vertically is to contact the manufacturer.
Not to hijack this thread...
I've been ogling that blower. The 1550 advertised CFM is tempting. I think that'd about double what my Rockler unit produces.
But here's what's dragging my feet: It says it draws 20 Amps peak. I'm wondering if I could run it and another tool on the same circuit? Anyone having problems with this?
Thanks,
TL
You will occasionally trip a 20 amp breaker with anything else on that circuit, how often depends on what else is on the same circuit. The DC is best by itself on a 20 amp circuit.
The G1029Z2 which is rated @ 1550 CFM is 240V only and the specs show a 9A draw. A 20A breaker is capable of sustaining a 16A load (80% of total) without tripping. On a 9A draw you would have about 7A for additional load on the 240V circuit. This does not account for startup draw which will vary depending on the piece of equipment. The DC will have a significant startup draw so it would have to be started first with the idea that the other device has a lower startup draw.
The G1028Z2 is rated at 1300 CFM and has a 12A draw on a 120V circuit. This leaves little room for any additional equipment. The unit can be converted to 240V with a 6A draw so would have more capacity for additional 240V equipment on the same circuit.
Misunderstood, thought you were asking about the 2 Hp HF 120 volt unit.
Thanks for the answers -I've got it figured out now....
So..... let's get back to the "show 'em off" theme of this thread I hijacked. 8)
TL